Food_NN1 :_: The_AT test_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 true_JJ boar_NN1 :_: British_JJ gourmets_NN2 could_VM soon_RR go_VVI the_AT whole_JJ hog_NN1 ,_, writes_VVZ Henrietta_NP1 Green_NP1 By_II HENRIETTA_NP1 GREEN_JJ WILD_JJ BOAR_NN1 once_RR roamed_VVD the_AT fields_NN2 and_CC forests_NN2 of_IO Britain_NP1 ._. 
They_PPHS2 were_VBDR the_AT sport_NN1 of_IO rich_JJ noblemen_NN2 who_PNQS hunted_VVD and_CC ate_VVD them_PPHO2 with_IW terrific_JJ enthusiasm_NN1 until_CS there_EX were_VBDR none_PN ._. 
Now_RT there_EX are_VBR plans_NN2 afoot_RR to_TO reintroduce_VVI them_PPHO2 to_II Britain_NP1 on_II a_AT1 grand_JJ scale_NN1 for_IF the_AT '_GE gourmet_NN1 '_GE market_NN1 ._. 
Not_XX as_RG wild_JJ boar_NN1 running_VVG free_JJ and_CC doing_VDG untold_JJ damage_NN1 to_II the_AT countryside_NN1 ,_, as_CSA in_II Italy_NP1 ,_, France_NP1 and_CC Germany_NP1 ;_; but_CCB as_CSA farmed_VVN wild_JJ boar_NN1 which_DDQ should_VM ease_VVI your_APPGE mind_NN1 ,_, even_CS21 if_CS22 it_PPH1 causes_VVZ the_AT farmers_NN2 untold_JJ headaches_NN2 ._. 
Thus_RR it_PPH1 was_VBDZ ,_, last_MD Friday_NPD1 ,_, that_CST the_AT inaugural_JJ meeting_NN1 of_IO the_AT British_JJ Wild_JJ Boar_NN1 Association_NN1 took_VVD place_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 was_VBDZ held_VVN ,_, appropriately_RR ,_, on_II the_AT first_MD day_NNT1 of_IO Michaelmas_NP1 when_RRQ ,_, in_II medieval_JJ times_NNT2 ,_, pigs_NN2 were_VBDR traditionally_RR turned_VVN out_RP into_II the_AT woods_NN2 to_TO fatten_VVI up_RP on_II acorns_NN2 ._. 
It_PPH1 got_VVD off_RP to_II a_AT1 hairy_JJ start_NN1 with_IW several_DA2 heated_JJ discussions_NN2 about_II what_DDQ a_AT1 wild_JJ boar_NN1 is_VBZ ._. 
Does_58 '_GE wild_JJ '_GE mean_VV0 how_RRQ it_PPH1 is_VBZ kept_VVN ?_? 
Can_VM it_PPH1 be_VBI farmed_VVN intensively_RR or_CC should_VM it_PPH1 only_RR be_VBI reared_VVN extensively_RR ?_? 
Does_VDZ the_AT name_NN1 cover_VVI only_RR pure-bred_JJ wild_JJ boars_NN2 or_CC can_VM it_PPH1 include_VVI a_AT1 cross_NN1 ,_, bred_VVN with_IW a_AT1 domestic_JJ pig_NN1 ?_? 
If_CS crosses_NN2 are_VBR to_TO be_VBI allowed_VVN ,_, what_DDQ percentage_NN1 of_IO cross_NN1 is_VBZ acceptable_JJ ?_? 
And_CC just_RR because_CS it_PPH1 looks_VVZ like_II a_AT1 wild_JJ boar_NN1 with_IW the_AT striped_JJ marking_NN1 or_CC '_GE agouti_NN2 '_GE (_( long_JJ snout_NN1 ,_, straight_JJ tail_NN1 and_CC small_JJ pointy_JJ ears_NN2 )_) ,_, can_VM it_PPH1 be_VBI accepted_VVN as_CSA such_DA without_IW a_AT1 genetic_JJ test_NN1 ?_? 
Pretty_RG technical_JJ stuff_NN1 this_DD1 ,_, with_IW enough_DD contentious_JJ issues_NN2 to_TO make_VVI every_AT1 boar_NN1 farmer_NN1 's_GE hair_NN1 curl_NN1 ._. 
As_CSA Robert_NP1 Spencer_NP1 Bernard_NP1 ,_, barrister_NN1 and_CC part-time_JJ farmer_NN1 of_IO wild_JJ boar_NN1 for_IF several_DA2 years_NNT2 on_II his_APPGE Buckinghamshire_NP1 estate_NN1 ,_, said_VVD :_: '_" A_ZZ1 tiger_NN1 is_VBZ a_AT1 tiger_NN1 whether_CSW you_PPY see_VV0 it_PPH1 in_II the_AT London_NP1 Zoo_NN1 or_CC in_II the_AT Indian_JJ forests_NN2 ,_, but_CCB with_IW a_AT1 wild_JJ boar_NN1 the_AT argument_NN1 is_VBZ n't_XX so_RG simple_JJ ._. 
'_" We_PPIS2 had_VHD been_VBN herded_VVN together_RL to_TO discuss_VVI this_DD1 and_CC other_JJ issues_NN2 by_II Dr_NNB Derek_NP1 Booth_NP1 ,_, animal_NN1 geneticist_NN1 and_CC scientist_NN1 ._. 
Easily_RR recognised_VVN by_II his_APPGE boar_NN1 's_GE head_NN1 tie_NN1 ,_, his_APPGE enthusiasm_NN1 and_CC appetite_NN1 was_VBDZ first_MD whetted_VVD when_RRQ he_PPHS1 met_VVD the_AT '_GE iron-age_NN1 '_GE pig_NN1 several_DA2 years_NNT2 ago_RA ._. 
A_AT1 cross_NN1 between_II a_AT1 wild_JJ boar_NN1 and_CC Tamworth_NP1 pig_NN1 ,_, it_PPH1 was_VBDZ bred_VVN for_IF a_AT1 BBC_NP1 TV_NN1 series_NN in_II an_AT1 attempt_NN1 to_TO recreate_VVI animals_NN2 from_II that_DD1 era_NN1 ._. 
Dr_NNB Booth_NP1 was_VBDZ admittedly_RR '_GE horrified_JJ by_II the_AT amount_NN1 of_IO fat_NN1 it_PPH1 carried_VVD '_GE and_CC it_PPH1 was_VBDZ not_XX until_CS he_PPHS1 saw_VVD wild_JJ boar_NN1 in_II a_AT1 wild_JJ life_NN1 park_NN1 in_II France_NP1 that_CST he_PPHS1 realised_VVD the_AT opportunities_NN2 ._. 
Clearly_RR Sam_NP1 Weller_NP1 had_VHD also_RR seen_VVN the_AT light_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 self-proclaimed_JJ poineer_NN1 and_CC the_AT '_GE first_MD man_NN1 to_TO go_VVI the_AT whole_JJ hog_NN1 '_GE with_IW his_APPGE business_NN1 ,_, the_AT Wild_JJ Boar_NN1 Company_NN1 ,_, he_PPHS1 was_VBDZ all_RR for_IF setting_VVG the_AT strictest_JJT standards_NN2 of_IO breeds_NN2 ,_, offering_VVG a_AT1 product_NN1 aimed_VVN at_II the_AT '_GE luxury_JJ end_NN1 '_GE of_IO the_AT market_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Cross_NN1 breeds_NN2 do_VD0 produce_VVI some_DD excellent_JJ pork_NN1 ,_, but_CCB it_PPH1 's_VBZ not_XX wild_JJ boar_NN1 and_CC it_PPH1 should_VM n't_XX be_VBI sold_VVN as_II such_DA ._. 
'_" He_PPHS1 believes_VVZ that_CST even_CS21 when_CS22 farmed_VVN ,_, wild_JJ boar_NN1 must_VM be_VBI genetically_RR pure_JJ and_CC reared_VVN in_II conditions_NN2 which_DDQ approximate_VV0 the_AT wild_JJ as_RG closely_RR as_CSA possible_JJ ._. 
An_AT1 animal_NN1 's_GE environment_NN1 ,_, the_AT food_NN1 it_PPH1 eats_VVZ ,_, the_AT rigours_NN2 of_IO its_APPGE existence_NN1 and_CC its_APPGE genetic_JJ make-up_NN1 may_VM all_DB affect_VVI the_AT taste_NN1 and_CC texture_NN1 of_IO its_APPGE flesh_NN1 ._. 
'_GE But_CCB what_DDQ we_PPIS2 do_VD0 n't_XX know_VVI ,_, '_GE Sam_NP1 Weller_NP1 told_VVD me_PPIO1 ,_, '_GE is_VBZ the_AT relevant_JJ importance_NN1 of_IO those_DD2 factors_NN2 '_GE ._. 
Research_NN1 was_VBDZ then_RT produced_VVN by_II Jeff_NP1 Woods_NP1 from_II the_AT Institute_NN1 of_IO Food_NN1 Research_NN1 which_DDQ backed_VVD up_RP part_NN1 of_IO Sam_NP1 Weller_NP1 's_GE argument_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 cross-bred_JJ boar_NN1 was_VBDZ reared_VVN and_CC fed_VVN indoors_RL in_II a_AT1 pen_NN1 ,_, under_II identical_JJ conditions_NN2 to_II a_AT1 domestic_JJ pig_NN1 ,_, and_CC the_AT meats_NN2 from_II the_AT two_MC carcasses_NN2 tasted_VVD exactly_RR the_AT same_DA ._. 
Clearly_RR environment_NN1 and_CC diet_NN1 do_VD0 determine_VVI the_AT taste_NN1 ._. 
When_CS kept_VVN outside_RL and_CC left_VVD to_TO roam_VVI ,_, eating_VVG a_AT1 varied_JJ diet_NN1 and_CC developing_VVG plenty_PN of_IO muscle_NN1 ,_, boars_NN2 will_VM taste_VVI different_JJ from_II the_AT domestic_JJ pig_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB what_DDQ no_PN121 one_PN122 seemed_VVD prepared_JJ or_CC able_JK to_TO tell_VVI was_VBDZ to_II what_DDQ extent_NN1 the_AT purity_NN1 of_IO breed_NN1 influences_VVZ the_AT taste_NN1 of_IO boar_NN1 ._. 
As_CSA one_MC1 cynical_JJ farmer_NN1 whispered_VVD knowingly_RR ,_, '_" If_CSW they_PPHS2 're_VBR not_XX careful_JJ ,_, they_PPHS2 'll_VM price_VVI themselves_PPX2 right_RR out_II21 of_II22 the_AT market_NN1 with_IW their_APPGE boring_JJ pure-bred_JJ boars_NN2 ._. 
That_DD1 'll_VM leave_VVI it_PPH1 wide_RR open_JJ for_IF the_AT supermarket_NN1 boys_NN2 to_TO market_VVI a_AT1 '_GE free-range_JJ acorn-fed_JJ pork_NN1 '_GE an_AT1 intensively_RR bred_VVN pig_NN1 ,_, fattened_VVD up_RP in_II woods_NN2 in_II half_DB the_AT time_NNT1 and_CC costing_VVG well_RR under_RG an_AT1 eighth_MD of_IO the_AT price_NN1 ._. 
'_" Not_XX a_AT1 bad_JJ idea_NN1 ,_, but_CCB if_CS the_AT British_JJ Wild_JJ Boar_NN1 Association_NN1 ,_, already_RR bristling_VVG with_IW problems_NN2 ,_, is_VBZ to_TO combat_VVI that_DD1 threat_NN1 it_PPH1 must_VM sort_VVI out_RP its_APPGE standards_NN2 ._. 
If_CS you_PPY do_VD0 manage_VVI to_TO buy_VVI wild_JJ boar_NN1 ,_, I_PPIS1 suggest_VV0 you_PPY try_VV0 making_VVG hamburgers_NN2 ._. 
This_DD1 recipe_NN1 is_VBZ adapted_VVN from_II Patricia_NP1 Lousada_NP1 's_GE satisfying_JJ Game_NN1 Cookery_NN1 (_( John_NP1 Murray_NP1 ,_, 15.95_MC )_) ._. 
It_PPH1 reminds_VVZ me_PPIO1 of_IO eating_VVG wild_JJ boar_NN1 in_II Tuscany_NP1 where_RRQ fennel_NN1 seed_NN1 is_VBZ traditionally_RR added_VVN to_TO give_VVI an_AT1 edge_NN1 to_II the_AT flavour_NN1 ._. 
Wild_JJ Boar_NN1 Hamburgers_NN2 Ingredients_NN2 :_: 450g_NNU (_( 1lb_NNU )_) lean_JJ boar_NN1 meat_NN1 from_II shoulder_NN1 or_CC loin_NN1 50g_NNU (_( 2oz_NNU )_) fresh_JJ boar_NN1 or_CC pork_NN1 back_NN1 fat_NN1 3tbs_FO breadcrumbs_NN2 2tbs_FO fresh_JJ cream_NN1 2tbs_FO fennel_NN1 seed_NN1 1_MC1 tsp_NNU fine_JJ sea_NN1 salt_NN1 Freshly_RR ground_JJ black_JJ pepper_NN1 Small_NP1 pinch_NN1 ground_NN1 cloves_NN2 and_CC nutmeg_NN1 Preparation_NN1 :_: Mince_VV0 the_AT meat_NN1 and_CC fat_JJ and_CC mix_VV0 in_II the_AT remaining_JJ ingredients_NN2 ,_, or_CC mix_VV0 all_DB the_AT ingredients_NN2 together_RL in_II a_AT1 food_NN1 processor_NN1 ._. 
Shape_VV0 the_AT mixture_NN1 into_II smallish_JJ hamburgers_NN2 in_II the_AT palm_NN1 of_IO your_APPGE hands_NN2 and_CC ,_, turning_VVG them_PPHO2 once_RR ,_, grill_VV0 them_PPHO2 for_IF about_RG 5-7_MCMC minutes_NNT2 depending_II21 on_II22 how_RGQ rare_JJ you_PPY like_VV0 the_AT meat_NN1 ._. 
Recipe_NN1 :_: Filling_VVG formulas_NN2 for_IF filo_NN1 By_II LINDA_NP1 SUE_NP1 PARK_NN1 READER_NN1 submissions_NN2 for_IF filo_NN1 pastry_NN1 recipes_NN2 were_VBDR a_AT1 trickle_NN1 rather_II21 than_II22 a_AT1 torrent_NN1 ._. 
Postmarks_NN2 were_VBDR for_RR41 the_RR42 most_RR43 part_RR44 no_AT further_RRR north_ND1 than_CSN the_AT Midlands_NP1 ._. 
But_CCB filo_NN1 pastry_NN1 is_VBZ available_JJ in_II the_AT North_ND1 ,_, because_CS this_DD1 week_NNT1 's_GE winning_JJ recipe_NN1 comes_VVZ from_II Newcastle_NP1 upon_II Tyne_NP1 ._. 
The_AT quality_NN1 of_IO the_AT recipes_NN2 was_VBDZ such_CS21 that_CS22 it_PPH1 was_VBDZ difficult_JJ to_TO choose_VVI which_DDQ to_TO publish_VVI ._. 
Several_DA2 readers_NN2 like_II the_AT combination_NN1 of_IO filo_NN1 and_CC fish_NN or_CC seafood_NN1 prawns_NN2 ,_, salmon_NN ,_, trout_NN ._. 
P_NP1 Taylor_NP1 from_II Chester_NP1 recommends_VVZ a_AT1 filling_NN1 of_IO courgettes_NN2 and_CC pine_NN1 nuts_NN2 from_II the_AT excellent_JJ Greens_NN2 Cook_VV0 Book_NN1 (_( Bantam_NP1 ,_, 12.95_MC )_) ._. 
Frances_NP1 Craig_NP1 from_II Middlesex_NP1 sends_VVZ a_AT1 formula_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 classic_JJ apple_NN1 strudel_NN1 ,_, learnt_VVN when_CS she_PPHS1 was_VBDZ a_AT1 washer-up_NN1 in_II a_AT1 German_JJ Gasthof_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB the_AT winning_JJ recipe_NN1 is_VBZ for_IF the_AT filo_NN1 fruit_NN baskets_NN2 ,_, below_RL ,_, sent_VVD in_RP by_II Margaret_NP1 Crisell_NP1 from_II Newcastle_NP1 which_DDQ wins_VVZ her_PPHO1 a_AT1 bottle_NN1 of_IO 1987_MC Torres_NP1 Milmanda_NP1 wine_NN1 from_II Pendes_NP1 ,_, Spain_NP1 ._. 
Savoury_JJ filo_NN1 recipes_NN2 next_MD week_NNT1 ;_; then_RT we_PPIS2 want_VV0 the_AT best_JJT recipe_NN1 for_IF game-bird_JJ stuffings_NN2 ._. 
Breadcrumb_NN1 recipes_NN2 are_VBR welcome_JJ but_CCB why_RRQ not_XX stretch_VVI to_TO bulgur_VVI ,_, rice_NN1 ,_, millet_NN1 ?_? 
The_AT prize_NN1 is_VBZ a_AT1 bottle_NN1 of_IO Matusalem_NP1 Oloroso_NP1 sherry_NN1 ._. 
Send_VV0 your_APPGE suggestions_NN2 ,_, with_IW source_NN1 if_CS not_XX original_JJ ,_, to_II Recipe/Weekend_FU Section_NN1 ,_, The_AT Independent_NN1 ,_, 40_MC City_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, London_NP1 EC1Y_FO 2DB_FO ._. 
Filo_NN1 Fruit_NN Baskets_NN2 serves_VVZ 4_MC Ingredients_NN2 :_: filo_NN1 pastry_NN1 ,_, cut_VVN into_II 5in_NNU squares_NN2 2oz_NNU butter_NN1 ,_, melted_JJ pint_NNU1 double_JJ cream_NN1 ,_, whipped_VVN 2tbs_FO Greek_JJ yoghurt_NN1 tsp_NNU ground_NN1 ginger_NN1 2-4_MCMC pieces_NN2 crystallised_JJ ginger_NN1 ,_, finely_RR chopped_VVN 1tbs_FO soft_JJ brown_JJ sugar_NN1 Seasonal_JJ fruits_NN2 ,_, cut_VVN into_II small_JJ dice_NN Preparation_NN1 :_: Butter_NN1 the_AT outsides_NN2 of_IO four_MC upturned_JJ ramekins_NN2 ._. 
Drape_VV0 four_MC or_CC five_MC squares_NN2 of_IO filo_NN1 ,_, each_DD1 in_II a_AT1 slightly_RR different_JJ position_NN1 ,_, over_II each_DD1 ramekin_NN1 ,_, brushing_VVG layers_NN2 with_IW melted_JJ butter_NN1 ._. 
Bake_VV0 at_II 180C/_FO 350F/gas_FU 4_MC for_IF 20_MC minutes_NNT2 ,_, until_CS crisp_JJ and_CC golden_JJ ._. 
Cool_JJ ,_, remove_VV0 pastry_NN1 and_CC turn_VV0 right_RR side_VV0 up_RP ._. 
Immediately_RR before_II serving_VVG ,_, fill_VV0 with_IW fruit_NN and_CC top_NN1 with_IW cream_NN1 mixed_VVN with_IW yoghurt_NN1 and_CC the_AT gingers_NN2 ._. 
Food_NN1 :_: Ping_NN1 ,_, unload_VV0 ,_, zap_NN1 and_CC refuel_VV0 By_II KEITH_NP1 BOTSFORD_NP1 SOME_DD 18_MC months_NNT2 ago_RA I_PPIS1 wrote_VVD about_II my_APPGE own_DA incompetence_NN1 with_IW and_CC dislike_VV0 for_IF the_AT microwave_NN1 oven_NN1 ._. 
Now_RT I_PPIS1 have_VH0 found_VVN out_RP why_RRQ ._. 
My_APPGE ideas_NN2 about_II food_NN1 are_VBR definitely_RR passe_JJ ._. 
A_AT1 recent_JJ survey_NN1 in_II the_AT Wall_NP1 Street_NNL1 Journal_NN1 ,_, America_NP1 's_GE only_JJ readable_JJ paper_NN1 ,_, has_VHZ shown_VVN that_CST the_AT microwave_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT nation_NN1 's_GE favourite_JJ household_NN1 appliance_NN1 ,_, second_MD only_RR to_II the_AT smoke_NN1 alarm_NN1 in_II31 terms_II32 of_II33 its_APPGE importance_NN1 to_II the_AT American_JJ lifestyle_NN1 ._. 
The_AT microwave_NN1 ,_, says_VVZ the_AT Journal_NN1 ,_, is_58 '_GE the_AT embodiment_NN1 of_IO Eighties-style_JJ individualism_NN1 ,_, turning_VVG each_DD1 family_NN1 member_NN1 into_II a_AT1 chef_NN1 ._. 
Gone_VVN is_VBZ the_AT sanctity_NN1 of_IO the_AT family_NN1 meal_NN1 ._. 
Irretrievably_RR altered_VVN is_VBZ the_AT role_NN1 of_IO Mom_NN1 ,_, the_AT nurturer_NN1 '_GE ._. 
The_AT present_JJ pattern_NN1 is_VBZ an_AT1 ultra-sound_NN1 bite_NN1 ,_, one_PN1 for_IF each_DD1 member_NN1 of_IO the_AT family_NN1 ,_, or_CC a_AT1 six-pack_NN1 for_IF guests_NN2 if_CS such_DA people_NN still_RR exist_VV0 ._. 
Kids_NN2 in_II shorts_NN2 can_VM stick_VVI My_APPGE Own_DA Meal_NN1 ,_, Kids_NN2 Kitchen_NN1 and_CC Kid_NN1 Cuisine_NN1 (_( all_DB from_II Campbells_NP2 )_) in_II the_AT little_JJ box_NN1 ,_, turn_VV0 the_AT knob_NN1 ,_, wait_VV0 briefly_RR ,_, unload_VV0 ,_, zap_VV0 down_RP their_APPGE food_NN1 and_CC get_VV0 back_RP to_II the_AT major_JJ business_NN1 of_IO life_NN1 ,_, the_AT latest_JJT video_NN1 ._. 
The_AT loveliest_JJT remarks_NN2 on_II this_DD1 phenomenon_NN1 come_VVN from_II the_AT corporate_JJ convenience_NN1 food_NN1 conveyancers_NN2 ._. 
Consider_VV0 Joel_NP1 Weiner_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 senior_JJ vice-president_NN1 in_II the_AT Kraft_NP1 division_NN1 (_( you_PPY know_VV0 it_PPH1 ,_, it_PPH1 makes_VVZ the_AT world_NN1 's_GE worst_JJT cheese_NN1 )_) of_IO Philip_NP1 Morris_NP1 ._. 
Weiner_NN1 says_VVZ that_CST in_II the_AT Eighties_MC2 we_PPIS2 've_VH0 gone_VVN past_II the_AT '_GE grazing_NN1 '_GE stage_NN1 ,_, in_II which_DDQ we_PPIS2 picked_VVD at_II this_DD1 and_CC that_CST all_DB day_NNT1 long_RR ,_, to_II '_GE refuelling_NN1 '_GE :_: the_AT pit-stop_NN1 in_II which_DDQ we_PPIS2 shovel_VV0 food_NN1 in_II our_APPGE mouths_NN2 as_RG fast_RR as_CSA we_PPIS2 can_VM ._. 
If_CS speed_NN1 is_VBZ of_IO the_AT essence_NN1 and_CC all_DB marketing_NN1 surveys_NN2 say_VV0 it_PPH1 is_VBZ then_RT the_AT microwave_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT manufacturers_NN2 '_GE version_NN1 of_IO the_AT licence_NN1 to_TO print_VVI money_NN1 ._. 
Time_NNT1 is_VBZ money_NN1 and_CC ,_, after_CS money_NN1 ,_, time_NNT1 is_VBZ what_DDQ the_AT masses_NN2 crave_VV0 most_RRT ._. 
Ergo_NN1 ,_, the_AT manufacturers_NN2 no_RR21 longer_RR22 dare_VM market_VVI food_NN1 that_CST takes_VVZ more_DAR than_CSN 10_MC minutes_NNT2 to_TO prepare_VVI ._. 
In_II my_APPGE own_DA lifetime_NNT1 ,_, the_AT changes_NN2 have_VH0 accelerated_VVN ._. 
I_PPIS1 grew_VVD up_RP in_II a_AT1 house_NN1 where_RRQ the_AT smells_NN2 of_IO preparation_NN1 and_CC cooking_NN1 began_VVD ,_, below_II stairs_NN2 ,_, not_XX long_RR after_CS I_PPIS1 rose_VVD ._. 
In_II my_APPGE youth_NN1 the_AT time_NNT1 required_VVN to_TO prepare_VVI a_AT1 meal_NN1 ,_, even_RR a_AT1 simple_JJ one_PN1 ,_, was_VBDZ usually_RR two_MC hours_NNT2 ._. 
By_II the_AT Seventies_MC2 this_DD1 had_VHD been_VBN cut_VVN down_RP ,_, thanks_NN2 to_II the_AT pressure_NN1 cooker_NN1 ,_, hotter_JJR ovens_NN2 and_CC the_AT first_MD electric_JJ gadgets_NN2 ,_, to_II an_AT1 hour_NNT1 ._. 
Ten_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA ,_, surveys_NN2 showed_VVD people_NN were_VBDR willing_JJ to_TO put_VVI in_II a_AT1 half-hour_NNT1 in_II the_AT kitchen_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 's_VBZ 10_MC minutes_NNT2 today_RT :_: less_DAR than_CSN a_AT1 cat_NN1 puts_VVZ in_RP on_II a_AT1 bird_NN1 ._. 
Nor_CC is_VBZ it_PPH1 just_RR time_VV0 that_DD1 is_VBZ in_II question_NN1 ._. 
Convenience_NN1 means_VVZ just_RR that_DD1 ._. 
Many_DA2 people_NN today_RT are_VBR too_RG lazy_JJ even_RR to_TO open_VVI a_AT1 tin_NN1 ._. 
Tomorrow_RT 's_GE meal_NN1 ,_, like_II an_AT1 astronaut_NN1 's_GE dinner_NN1 ,_, comes_VVZ in_II a_AT1 plastic_NN1 bag_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB that_DD1 is_VBZ not_XX all_DB ._. 
Mona_NP1 Doyle_NP1 ,_, president_NN1 of_IO Consumer_NN1 Network_NN1 Inc_JJ in_II Philadelphia_NP1 which_DDQ studies_VVZ our_APPGE food_NN1 habits_NN2 ,_, has_VHZ a_AT1 philosophical_JJ point_NN1 of_IO some_DD interest_NN1 ._. 
She_PPHS1 thinks_VVZ the_AT microwave_NN1 '_GE has_VHZ changed_VVN our_APPGE perceptions_NN2 of_IO time_NNT1 ,_, much_DA1 as_CSA telephones_NN2 changed_VVD them_PPHO2 at_II the_AT turn_NN1 of_IO the_AT century_NNT1 '_GE ._. 
Her_APPGE proof_NN1 is_VBZ in_II the_AT restaurant_NN1 trade_NN1 :_: '_GE Even_RR fast_JJ food_NN1 restaurants_NN2 (_( do_VD0 )_) not_XX seem_VV0 fast_JJ ,_, because_CS at_II home_NN1 you_PPY do_VD0 n't_XX have_VHI to_TO wait_VVI in_II line_NN1 ._. 
'_" You_PPY know_VV0 how_RRQ it_PPH1 is_VBZ with_IW these_DD2 developments_NN2 ._. 
We_PPIS2 get_VV0 genetically_RR (_( and_CC culinarily_RR )_) imprinted_VVD with_IW them_PPHO2 ._. 
You_PPY used_VMK to_TO walk_VVI to_II the_AT store_NN1 ;_; now_RT you_PPY ride_VV0 ._. 
You_PPY used_VMK to_TO shop_VVI daily_RR ,_, now_RT it_PPH1 's_VBZ weekly_JJ ._. 
Fresh_JJ has_VHZ become_VVN frozen_JJ ._. 
Kitchen_NN1 travail_NN1 was_VBDZ for_IF reward_NN1 ;_; now_RT you_PPY get_VV0 gratification_NN1 without_IW labour_NN1 ._. 
Roles_NN2 were_VBDR defined_VVN :_: mother_NN1 in_II the_AT kitchen_NN1 ,_, father_NN1 owlishly_RR awaiting_VVG his_APPGE dinner_NN1 ,_, kids_NN2 scrubbing_VVG their_APPGE hands_NN2 ._. 
Now_RT there_EX is_VBZ to_TO be_VBI the_AT universal_JJ democracy_NN1 of_IO the_AT microwave_NN1 ._. 
Father_NN1 wants_VVZ tandoori_NN2 duck_NN ,_, mother_NN1 something_PN1 green_JJ ,_, the_AT kids_NN2 go_VV0 for_IF nachos_NN2 except_II21 for_II22 studious_JJ Cecil_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS wants_VVZ Raymond_NP1 Blanc_NP1 in_II a_AT1 package_NN1 ._. 
The_AT schedule_NN1 advances_VVZ only_RR on_II when_RRQ the_AT microwave_NN1 is_VBZ free_JJ ._. 
Conversation_NN1 at_II table_NN1 is_VBZ as_RG superfluous_JJ as_CSA a_AT1 sermon_NN1 in_II church_NN1 ;_; all_DB is_VBZ still_RR but_II21 for_II22 the_AT ping_NN1 of_IO the_AT latest_JJT microwave_NN1 masterpiece_NN1 ._. 
Campbells_NP2 '_GE Richard_NP1 Nelson_NP1 has_VHZ it_PPH1 right_RR ._. 
Today_RT 's_GE kids_NN2 '_GE are_VBR being_VBG imprinted_VVN with_IW the_AT microwave_NN1 ,_, not_XX the_AT stove_NN1 '_GE ._. 
The_AT hearth_NN1 as_CSA metaphor_NN1 is_VBZ dead_JJ ._. 
But_CCB the_AT Journal_NN1 also_RR comes_VVZ up_RP with_IW some_DD curious_JJ contradictions_NN2 :_: 36_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 blame_VV0 the_AT microwave_NN1 for_IF poorer_JJR flavour_NN1 ,_, 20_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 think_VV0 it_PPH1 makes_VVZ food_NN1 soggy_JJ ._. 
The_AT Journal_NN1 's_GE final_JJ lament_NN1 is_VBZ to_II the_AT grilled_JJ cheese_NN1 sandwich_NN1 or_CC the_AT croque_JJ monsieur_NN1 ._. 
Once_RR a_AT1 golden_JJ brown_JJ staple_NN1 ,_, crisp_NN1 on_II the_AT outside_JJ and_CC creamy_JJ within_RL ,_, it_PPH1 has_VHZ gone_VVN the_AT way_NN1 of_IO all_DB flesh_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB in_II this_DD1 rather_RG frightening_JJ vision_NN1 of_IO the_AT present_NN1 and_CC future_NN1 ,_, so_RR have_VH0 all_DB the_AT things_NN2 I_PPIS1 learnt_VVD to_TO care_VVI about_II in_II eating_NN1 :_: flavour_NN1 ,_, texture_NN1 ,_, invention_NN1 ,_, subtlety_NN1 ,_, companionship_NN1 and_CC leisure_NN1 ,_, which_DDQ marks_VVZ the_AT end_NN1 of_IO the_AT working_JJ day_NNT1 and_CC the_AT use_NN1 of_IO time_NNT1 ,_, not_XX its_APPGE gobbling_NN1 ._. 
Food_NN1 :_: Sad_JJ decline_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 fishy_JJ business_NN1 :_: Customers_NN2 are_VBR deserting_VVG Billingsgate_NP1 market_VV0 to_TO buy_VVI direct_JJ from_II the_AT ports_NN2 ,_, says_VVZ Deirdre_NP1 McQuillan_NP1 By_II DEIRDRE_NP1 MCQUILLAN_NP1 I_PPIS1 do_VD0 like_VVI to_TO be_VBI able_JK to_TO pick_VVI a_AT1 fish_NN up_RP by_II its_APPGE head_NN1 ,_, '_GE William_NP1 Black_NP1 said_VVD ,_, waving_VVG a_AT1 sea_NN1 bass_NN1 in_II rigor_NN121 mortis_NN122 at_II me_PPIO1 ,_, before_II going_VVG on_RP to_TO inspect_VVI its_APPGE gills_NN2 ._. 
He_PPHS1 makes_VVZ a_AT1 bleary-eyed_JJ and_CC disorientating_VVG living_NN1 between_II Rungis_NP1 ,_, the_AT wholesale_JJ fish_NN market_VV0 on_II the_AT south_ND1 side_NN1 of_IO Paris_NP1 ,_, and_CC London_NP1 ,_, where_CS he_PPHS1 supplies_VVZ fish_NN to_II restaurants_NN2 such_II21 as_II22 Tante_NP1 Claire_NP1 ,_, Alistair_NP1 Little_NP1 and_CC Suntory_NP1 ._. 
His_PPGE is_VBZ just_RR one_MC1 example_NN1 of_IO the_AT new_JJ enterprises_NN2 supplying_VVG fish_NN to_II shops_NN2 or_CC restaurants_NN2 that_CST cut_VV0 out_RP Billingsgate_NP1 market_NN1 ;_; for_CS they_PPHS2 also_RR cut_VVN out_RP the_AT 25_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 or_CC so_RR that_DD1 trading_NN1 through_II the_AT market_NN1 adds_VVZ to_II the_AT cost_NN1 of_IO fish_NN ._. 
Independent_JJ fishmongers_NN2 often_RR buy_VV0 directly_RR from_II the_AT ports_NN2 using_VVG Billingsgate_NP1 ,_, the_AT central_JJ wholesale_JJ market_NN1 for_IF shops_NN2 and_CC restaurants_NN2 across_II the_AT whole_NN1 of_IO southern_JJ England_NP1 ,_, as_CSA a_AT1 back-up_NN1 ._. 
'_" If_CSW they_PPHS2 do_VD0 n't_XX get_VVI their_APPGE finger_NN1 out_RP ,_, they_PPHS2 will_VM lose_VVI almost_RR all_DB their_APPGE business_NN1 to_II the_AT direct_JJ trade_NN1 ,_, '_GE is_VBZ Jim_NP1 Moran_NP1 's_GE succinct_JJ analysis_NN1 of_IO the_AT market_NN1 's_GE future_NN1 ._. 
From_II a_AT1 family_NN1 of_IO fish_NN merchants_NN2 ,_, he_PPHS1 has_VHZ served_VVN on_II Billingsgate_NP1 committees_NN2 and_CC all_RR21 but_RR22 despairs_NN2 of_IO '_" them_PPHO2 ever_RR getting_VVG on_RP with_IW the_AT real_JJ business_NN1 of_IO selling_VVG fish_NN '_GE ._. 
He_PPHS1 estimates_VVZ that_CST the_AT market_NN1 handles_VVZ only_RR 50_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 of_IO the_AT trade_NN1 in_II fresh_JJ fish_NN in_II southern_JJ England_NP1 ._. 
Mr_NNB Moran_NP1 added_VVD to_II that_DD1 decline_NN1 when_CS his_APPGE Billingsgate-based_JJ merchant_NN1 business_NN1 ,_, R_ZZ1 W_ZZ1 Larkin_NP1 ,_, opened_VVD a_AT1 swanky_JJ new_JJ fishmonger_NN1 in_II London_NP1 's_GE King_NP1 's_GE Road_NNL1 to_II which_DDQ fish_NN is_VBZ delivered_VVN from_II port_NN1 agents_NN2 around_II Britain_NP1 ,_, and_CC also_RR from_II Boulogne_NP1 ._. 
'_" As_CSA wholesalers_NN2 we_PPIS2 felt_VVD that_CST Billingsgate_NP1 was_VBDZ not_XX offering_VVG us_PPIO2 the_AT facilities_NN2 we_PPIS2 needed_VVD ,_, '_" he_PPHS1 explains_VVZ ._. 
'_" We_PPIS2 still_RR trade_VV0 from_II there_RL ,_, but_CCB in_BCL21 order_BCL22 to_TO thrive_VVI we_PPIS2 have_VH0 had_VHN to_TO look_VVI at_II better_JJR ways_NN2 of_IO selling_NN1 ._. 
'_GE The_AT shop_NN1 has_VHZ two_MC aims_NN2 ._. 
One_MC1 is_VBZ to_TO see_VVI if_CSW adventurous_JJ buying_NN1 ,_, lavish_JJ displays_NN2 and_CC good_JJ service_NN1 (_( which_DDQ includes_VVZ opening_VVG until_II 7pm_RA and_CC for_IF a_AT1 half-day_NNT1 on_II Sunday_NPD1 )_) will_VM galvanise_VVI the_AT public_NN1 ._. 
The_AT other_NN1 is_VBZ to_TO provide_VVI a_AT1 more_RGR convenient_JJ location_NN1 for_IF restaurant_NN1 customers_NN2 ._. 
'_GE Chefs_NN2 do_VD0 n't_XX want_VVI to_TO get_VVI up_RP at_II six_MC in_II the_AT morning_NNT1 to_TO go_VVI to_II Docklands_NP1 ,_, '_GE Mr_NNB Moran_NP1 says_VVZ ._. 
Although_CS it_PPH1 seems_VVZ that_CST the_AT South_ND1 is_VBZ recovering_VVG its_APPGE appetite_NN1 for_IF fresh_JJ fish_NN ,_, with_IW restaurants_NN2 buying_VVG about_RG 30_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 of_IO the_AT fish_NN sold_VVN in_II the_AT area_NN1 ,_, there_EX is_VBZ no_AT doubt_NN1 that_CST there_EX has_VHZ been_VBN a_AT1 positive_JJ nosedive_NN1 in_II the_AT demand_NN1 for_IF fresh_JJ fish_NN in_II Britain_NP1 as_CSA whole_JJ ._. 
Sales_NN have_VH0 fallen_VVN by_II as_RG much_DA1 as_CSA 60_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 in_II the_AT last_MD 40_MC years_NNT2 ._. 
As_II a_AT1 result_NN1 ,_, fishmongers_NN2 have_VH0 disappeared_VVN :_: their_APPGE numbers_NN2 dropped_VVN from_II 9,000_MC in_II 1971_MC to_II 3,000_MC in_II 1981_MC ._. 
A_AT1 recent_JJ report_NN1 on_II fish_NN retailing_VVG ,_, compiled_VVN by_II the_AT market_NN1 research_NN1 company_NN1 Keynote_NN1 ,_, records_VVZ the_AT number_NN1 of_IO wet_JJ fish_NN shops_NN2 in_II the_AT south_ND1 of_IO England_NP1 having_VHG declined_VVN by_II 60_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 in_II 27_MC years_NNT2 ._. 
Since_CS the_AT days_NNT2 when_RRQ oysters_NN2 were_VBDR as_RG everyday_JJ a_AT1 dish_NN1 as_CSA hamburgers_NN2 are_VBR now_RT ,_, we_PPIS2 have_VH0 reached_VVN a_AT1 point_NN1 where_RRQ each_DD1 person_NN1 eats_VVZ only_RR an_AT1 average_NN1 of_IO 1.2oz_NNU of_IO fresh_JJ fish_NN a_AT1 week_NNT1 ._. 
Billingsgate_NP1 has_VHZ presided_VVN over_II this_DD1 decline_NN1 with_IW all_DB the_AT grace_NN1 of_IO an_AT1 oligarchy_NN1 that_CST sees_VVZ its_APPGE power_NN1 declining_VVG ._. 
It_PPH1 has_VHZ stuck_VVN to_II an_AT1 antiquated_JJ way_NN1 of_IO operating_VVG that_CST harks_VVZ back_RP to_II the_AT days_NNT2 of_IO guild_NN1 power_NN1 ,_, and_CC has_VHZ refused_VVN to_TO countenance_VVI criticism_NN1 ._. 
Transport_NN1 arrangements_NN2 within_II the_AT market_NN1 are_VBR strictly_RR regulated_VVN ._. 
Porters_NN2 must_VM be_VBI hired_VVN to_TO move_VVI any_DD amount_NN1 of_IO fish_NN ,_, however_RGQV small_JJ ,_, and_CC minders_NN2 paid_VVN to_TO look_VVI after_II customers_NN2 '_GE trucks_NN2 ._. 
No_AT prices_NN2 are_VBR written_VVN down_RP and_CC there_EX is_VBZ no_AT competitive_JJ bidding_NN1 ._. 
All_DB a_AT1 buyer_NN1 gets_VVZ to_TO see_VVI are_VBR the_AT sample_NN1 boxes_NN2 opened_VVN on_II the_AT trading_NN1 floor_NN1 ,_, on_II the_AT strength_NN1 of_IO which_DDQ he_PPHS1 negotiates_VVZ with_IW the_AT merchant_NN1 ._. 
This_DD1 is_VBZ how_RRQ markets_NN2 operate_VV0 the_AT world_NN1 over_RP ,_, but_CCB distrust_NN1 of_IO Billingsgate_NP1 's_GE dealing_NN1 seems_VVZ to_TO be_VBI a_AT1 problem_NN1 ._. 
Nicholas_NP1 Roe_NN ,_, a_AT1 writer_NN1 who_PNQS used_VMK to_TO be_VBI a_AT1 fishmonger_NN1 ,_, says_VVZ :_: '_" I_PPIS1 seemed_VVD to_TO spend_VVI more_DAR time_NNT1 sending_VVG fish_NN back_NN1 than_CSN selling_VVG it_PPH1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 had_VHD to_TO move_VVI further_RRR and_CC further_RRR back_RP down_II the_AT line_NN1 to_II the_AT boats_NN2 ._. 
'_GE Horror_NN1 stories_NN2 abound_VV0 :_: of_IO the_AT rogue_NN1 's_GE law_NN1 that_CST prevented_VVD any_DD port_NN1 agent_NN1 who_PNQS sold_VVD directly_RR to_II fishmongers_NN2 from_II ever_RR trading_VVG with_IW a_AT1 Billingsgate_NP1 merchant_NN1 again_RT ;_; of_IO the_AT nepotism_NN1 that_CST determined_VVD who_PNQS could_VM have_VHI a_AT1 stand_NN1 in_II the_AT market_NN1 ;_; and_CC of_IO prices_NN2 that_CST varied_VVD according_II21 to_II22 who_PNQS you_PPY were_VBDR and_CC whether_CSW you_PPY had_VHD a_AT1 good_JJ introduction_NN1 ._. 
These_DD2 stories_NN2 are_VBR commonplace_JJ ,_, although_CS those_DD2 involved_VVN are_VBR wary_JJ of_IO going_VVG on_II record_NN1 ._. 
On_II trips_NN2 organised_VVN for_IF food_NN1 writers_NN2 ,_, public_JJ perfidy_NN1 is_VBZ a_AT1 popular_JJ lament_NN1 ._. 
The_AT shopper_NN1 ,_, so_CS the_AT refrain_NN1 goes_VVZ ,_, does_VDZ n't_XX know_VVI how_RRQ to_TO cook_VVI fresh_JJ fish_NN ,_, ca_VM n't_XX cope_VVI with_IW bones_NN2 ,_, wo_VM n't_XX pay_VVI a_AT1 fair_JJ price_NN1 and_CC will_VM only_RR be_VBI persuaded_VVN to_TO buy_VVI the_AT traditional_JJ species_NN ._. 
The_AT traditional_JJ fishmonger_NN1 was_VBDZ n't_XX up_II21 to_II22 much_DA1 either_RR ,_, apparently_RR ,_, selling_VVG the_AT same_DA varieties_NN2 of_IO fish_NN to_II the_AT same_DA ageing_JJ customers_NN2 ._. 
Now_RT it_PPH1 is_VBZ the_AT turn_NN1 of_IO Billingsgate_NP1 to_TO feel_VVI anxious_JJ ,_, although_CS according_II21 to_II22 Lou_NP1 Hart_NP1 ,_, chairman_NN1 of_IO the_AT London_NP1 Fish_NN Merchants_NN2 '_GE Association_NN1 ,_, Billingsgate_NP1 has_VHZ nothing_PN1 to_TO fear_VVI :_: '_" We_PPIS2 offer_VV0 an_AT1 unrivalled_JJ service_NN1 ._. 
No_PN121 one_PN122 else_RR has_VHZ the_AT range_NN1 of_IO fish_NN ._. 
'_GE The_AT porterage_NN1 system_NN1 is_VBZ antiquated_JJ but_CCB it_PPH1 works_VVZ efficiently_RR ._. 
If_CS we_PPIS2 could_VM think_VVI of_IO a_AT1 better_JJR system_NN1 we_PPIS2 would_VM introduce_VVI it_PPH1 ._. 
'_GE Customers_NN2 are_VBR coming_VVG back_RP to_II Billingsgate_NP1 because_CS they_PPHS2 know_VV0 what_DDQ they_PPHS2 are_VBR getting_VVG ._. 
Problems_NN2 with_IW short_JJ weights_NN2 are_VBR being_VBG tackled_VVN and_CC if_CS fish_NN has_VHZ been_VBN on_II the_AT market_NN1 overnight_RT ,_, the_AT person_NN1 buying_VVG it_PPH1 is_VBZ aware_JJ ._. 
'_GE Contrary_II21 to_II22 what_DDQ people_NN think_VV0 ,_, we_PPIS2 are_VBR well_RR prepared_VVN for_IF 1992_MC ._. 
We_PPIS2 are_VBR going_VVGK to_TO be_VBI ahead_II21 of_II22 any_DD market_NN1 in_II Europe_NP1 ._. 
'_GE Traipsing_VVG around_RP after_II William_NP1 Black_NP1 through_II the_AT cold_NN1 ,_, wet_JJ trading_NN1 floors_NN2 of_IO Rungis_NP1 ,_, however_RR ,_, it_PPH1 was_VBDZ immediately_RR apparent_JJ that_CST the_AT size_NN1 of_IO the_AT Paris_NP1 operation_NN1 and_CC the_AT variety_NN1 of_IO fish_NN dwarfed_VVD London_NP1 ._. 
Refrigerated_NP1 juggernauts_VVZ from_II all_RR over_II Europe_NP1 wait_VV0 outside_II the_AT doors_NN2 ._. 
He_PPHS1 explained_VVD that_CST on_II the_AT Continent_NN1 it_PPH1 is_VBZ taken_VVN for_IF granted_VVN that_CST fish_NN caught_VVN on_II a_AT1 line_NN1 by_II small_JJ boats_NN2 should_VM command_VVI a_AT1 premium_NN1 for_IF the_AT careful_JJ handling_NN1 that_CST preserves_VVZ both_RR flavour_VV0 and_CC texture_NN1 ._. 
'_GE British_JJ fishermen_NN2 are_VBR beginning_VVG to_TO use_VVI lines_NN2 rather_II21 than_II22 nets_NN2 ,_, but_CCB they_PPHS2 are_VBR selling_VVG to_II the_AT Continent_NN1 because_CS they_PPHS2 'd_VM be_VBI daft_JJ not_XX to_TO ._. 
'_" It_PPH1 must_VM sometimes_RT be_VBI the_AT case_NN1 that_CST I_PPIS1 bring_VV0 British_JJ fish_NN back_RP to_II London_NP1 ,_, but_CCB it_PPH1 will_VM probably_RR be_VBI in_II better_JJR condition_NN1 than_CSN if_CS it_PPH1 had_VHD been_VBN bought_VVN there_RL as_CSA foreign_JJ agents_NN2 insist_VV0 on_II good_JJ transport_NN1 and_CC packing_NN1 ._. 
'_" We_PPIS2 stopped_VVD at_II one_MC1 of_IO his_APPGE regular_JJ suppliers_NN2 and_CC cadged_VVD a_AT1 few_DA2 sea_NN1 urchins_NN2 ,_, then_RT the_AT knife_NN1 to_TO eat_VVI them_PPHO2 with_IW ._. 
'_GE Fish_NN is_VBZ such_DA wonderful_JJ stuff_NN1 ,_, so_RG perishable_JJ and_CC so_RG delicate_JJ ,_, '_GE enthuses_NN2 Mr_NNB Black_NP1 ,_, waving_VVG at_II the_AT glorious_JJ display_NN1 of_IO shellfish_NN all_RR around_II us_PPIO2 ._. 
'_" It_PPH1 is_VBZ not_XX treated_VVN by_II the_AT trade_NN1 in_II Britain_NP1 with_IW anything_PN1 like_II the_AT respect_NN1 it_PPH1 is_VBZ given_VVN in_II France_NP1 ._. 
'_GE In_II the_AT fish_NN business_NN1 ,_, 1992_MC has_VHZ already_RR arrived_VVN ._. 
There_EX is_VBZ one_MC1 market_NN1 across_II Europe_NP1 and_CC the_AT prices_NN2 the_AT Germans_NN2 and_CC Italians_NN2 will_VM pay_VVI are_VBR even_RR surprising_VVG the_AT French_NN1 ._. 
They_PPHS2 will_VM pay_VVI whatever_DDQV it_PPH1 takes_VVZ to_TO get_VVI Scots_JJ crayfish_NN1 and_CC Dublin_NP1 Bay_NN1 prawns_NN2 into_II the_AT shops_NN2 and_CC restaurants_NN2 in_II beautiful_JJ condition_NN1 ,_, when_CS no_AT one_MC1 back_NN1 home_NN1 can_VM be_VBI bothered_VVN ._. 
That_DD1 is_VBZ why_RRQ I_PPIS1 prefer_VV0 to_TO work_VVI from_II here_RL ._. 
'_GE As_II an_AT1 example_NN1 ,_, he_PPHS1 opened_VVD a_AT1 case_NN1 of_IO red_JJ mullet_NN1 the_AT fashionable_JJ restaurant_NN1 fish_NN of_IO the_AT moment_NN1 which_DDQ he_PPHS1 had_VHD just_RR bought_VVN ._. 
'_" Now_RT this_DD1 is_VBZ packed_VVN in_II three-kilo_JJ boxes_NN2 ,_, filled_VVD properly_RR with_IW ice_NN1 of_IO just_RR the_AT right_JJ size_NN1 ._. 
Large_JJ lumps_NN2 bruise_VV0 the_AT skin_NN1 ._. 
The_AT mullet_NN1 have_VH0 been_VBN carefully_RR interleaved_VVN in_II the_AT box_NN1 ,_, rather_CS21 than_CS22 shoved_VVN in_RP ._. 
'_GE If_CS I_PPIS1 bought_VVD red_JJ mullet_NN1 in_II England_NP1 ,_, I_PPIS1 would_VM probably_RR get_VVI a_AT1 two-stone_JJ cardboard_JJ box_NN1 ._. 
Two_MC stone_NN1 is_VBZ really_RR too_RG large_JJ to_TO handle_VVI carefully_RR and_CC as_II21 for_II22 cardboard_NN1 and_CC ice_NN1 well_RR ,_, you_PPY can_VM imagine_VVI ._. 
The_AT quality_NN1 of_IO the_AT ice_NN1 and_CC the_AT arrangement_NN1 of_IO the_AT fish_NN would_VM be_VBI far_RG more_RGR haphazard_JJ and_CC so_RR ,_, by_II the_AT time_NNT1 the_AT fish_NN are_VBR delivered_VVN ,_, their_APPGE stomachs_NN2 will_VM have_VHI split_VVN ._. 
'_GE Alex_NP1 Griffiths_NP1 ,_, Marks_NP1 &amp;_CC Spencer_NP1 's_GE fish_NN executive_NN1 ,_, was_VBDZ surprised_JJ at_II the_AT idea_NN1 that_CST the_AT company_NN1 might_VM have_VHI even_RR contemplated_VVN using_VVG Billingsgate_NP1 when_CS it_PPH1 began_VVD selling_VVG fresh_JJ fish_NN nationally_RR four_MC years_NNT2 ago_RA ._. 
'_" I_PPIS1 go_VV0 to_II the_AT market_NN1 regularly_RR to_TO see_VVI what_DDQ is_VBZ happening_VVG ,_, '_" he_PPHS1 says_VVZ ,_, '_GE but_CCB our_APPGE entire_JJ trading_NN1 policy_NN1 is_VBZ based_VVN on_II building_NN1 relations_NN2 with_IW suppliers_NN2 ._. 
Our_APPGE suppliers_NN2 buy_VV0 direct_JJ from_II the_AT ports_NN2 ,_, prepare_VV0 and_CC pack_VV0 the_AT fish_NN for_IF us_PPIO2 and_CC then_RT we_PPIS2 have_VH0 it_PPH1 on_II the_AT shelves_NN2 within_II 24_MC hours_NNT2 ._. 
We_PPIS2 stipulate_VV0 temperature_NN1 and_CC handling_VVG at_II every_AT1 stage_NN1 ._. 
Going_VVG though_CS another_DD1 stage_NN1 would_VM mean_VVI a_AT1 loss_NN1 of_IO control_NN1 ._. 
'_" With_IW restaurants_NN2 ,_, supermarkets_NN2 ,_, wholesalers_NN2 ,_, single_JJ fishmongers_NN2 and_CC foreign_JJ buyers_NN2 all_DB scrabbling_NN1 for_IF the_AT best_JJT fish_NN ,_, the_AT implications_NN2 for_IF Billingsgate_NP1 are_VBR clear_JJ ._. 
In_II the_AT opinion_NN1 of_IO Tim_NP1 Lucas_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 director_NN1 of_IO the_AT wholesale_JJ company_NN1 Simson_NP1 :_: '_GE Billingsgate_NP1 is_VBZ ,_, shall_VM we_PPIS2 say_VVI ,_, a_RR21 little_RR22 tired_JJ ._. 
There_EX has_VHZ been_VBN such_DA a_AT1 growth_NN1 in_II direct_JJ dealing_NN1 that_CST fish_NN is_VBZ only_RR getting_VVG sent_VVN to_II Billingsgate_NP1 when_CS no_PN121 one_PN122 else_RR wants_VVZ it_PPH1 ._. 
'_GE But_CCB Jim_NP1 Moran_NP1 believes_VVZ Billingsgate_NP1 has_VHZ already_RR found_VVN its_APPGE niche_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Billingsgate_NP1 is_VBZ a_AT1 good_JJ place_NN1 for_IF cheap_JJ fish_NN ,_, '_" he_PPHS1 says_VVZ ._. 
'_" There_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 need_NN1 for_IF fish_NN that_CST has_VHZ been_VBN on_II the_AT market_NN1 a_AT1 couple_NN1 of_IO days_NNT2 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ not_XX the_AT image_NN1 which_DDQ people_NN like_VV0 you_PPY want_VV0 to_TO know_VVI about_II ,_, but_CCB it_PPH1 is_VBZ true_JJ ._. 
The_AT British_JJ like_II cheap_JJ food_NN1 ._. 
'_GE Nicholas_NP1 Roe_NN concluded_VVD our_APPGE conversation_NN1 rather_RG surprisingly_RR by_II saying_VVG :_: '_GE Billingsgate_NP1 is_VBZ a_AT1 really_RR tough_JJ environment_NN1 ,_, you_PPY work_VV0 long_JJ hours_NNT2 and_CC grow_VV0 old_JJ quickly_RR ._. 
You_PPY should_VM n't_XX be_VBI too_RG hard_JJ on_II it_PPH1 ._. 
'_" It_PPH1 seems_VVZ all_DB the_AT more_DAR of_IO a_AT1 waste_NN1 if_CS those_DD2 long_JJ ,_, cold_JJ hours_NNT2 only_RR result_VV0 in_II stale_JJ fish_NN ._. 
Drink_VV0 :_: Desire_NN1 in_II31 search_II32 of_II33 a_AT1 name_NN1 :_: Do_VD0 the_AT French_NN1 have_VHI the_AT '_GE mot_NN121 juste_NN122 '_GE to_TO describe_VVI the_AT desire_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 reviving_JJ drink_NN1 ?_? 
In_II the_AT first_MD of_IO a_AT1 monthly_JJ series_NN ,_, Michael_NP1 Jackson_NP1 hunts_VVZ in_RR21 vain_RR22 By_II MICHAEL_NP1 JACKSON_NP1 THANK_VV0 God_NP1 it_PPH1 's_VBZ Saturday_NPD1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 know_VV0 that_CST today_RT is_VBZ Saturday_NPD1 because_CS already_RR I_PPIS1 am_VBM thirsty_JJ for_IF a_AT1 dry_JJ ,_, hoppy_JJ pint_NNU1 of_IO bitter_JJ at_II the_AT end_NN1 of_IO the_AT afternoon_NNT1 :_: an_AT1 aperitif_NN1 to_TO sharpen_VVI my_APPGE appetite_NN1 for_IF this_DD1 evening_NNT1 's_GE Indian_JJ meal_NN1 ._. 
How_RRQ did_VDD you_PPY feel_VVI as_CSA you_PPY came_VVD to_II the_AT end_NN1 of_IO your_APPGE working_JJ week_NNT1 yesterday_RT afternoon_NNT1 ?_? 
Boy_NN1 ,_, I_PPIS1 had_VHD a_AT1 thirst_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 say_VV0 we_PPIS2 are_VBR thirsty_JJ when_CS we_PPIS2 mean_VV0 that_CST we_PPIS2 fancy_VV0 a_AT1 glass_NN1 of_IO wine_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 pint_NNU1 of_IO beer_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 gin_NN1 and_CC tonic_NN1 or_CC a_AT1 shot_NN1 of_IO whisky_NN1 the_AT pleasure_NN1 of_IO naming_VVG our_APPGE poison_NN1 at_II the_AT end_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 busy_JJ day_NNT1 or_CC tiresome_JJ week_NNT1 ._. 
That_DD1 is_VBZ not_XX thirst_NN1 ._. 
To_TO enjoy_VVI it_PPH1 ,_, we_PPIS2 do_VD0 not_XX need_VVI to_TO be_VBI dry_JJ :_: just_RR in_II31 need_II32 of_II33 a_AT1 restorative_NN1 or_CC relaxant_NN1 ,_, or_CC maybe_RR a_AT1 focus_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 social_JJ moment_NN1 or_CC brief_JJ encounter_NN1 ._. 
We_PPIS2 call_VV0 it_PPH1 '_VBZ thirst_NN1 '_GE in_II31 lieu_II32 of_II33 a_AT1 more_RGR accurate_JJ description_NN1 ._. 
No_UH ,_, not_XX more_RGR accurate_JJ :_: '_GE thirst_NN1 '_GE is_VBZ not_XX accurate_JJ at_II all_DB as_II a_AT1 description_NN1 for_IF this_DD1 apparently_RR indescribable_JJ condition_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ a_AT1 desire_NN1 millions_NNO2 of_IO us_PPIO2 know_VV0 and_CC share_NN1 ,_, yet_RR for_IF which_DDQ we_PPIS2 have_VH0 no_AT name_NN1 ._. 
This_DD1 desire_NN1 that_CST can_VM not_XX find_VVI its_APPGE name_NN1 (_( though_CS it_PPH1 would_VM dare_VVI speak_VVI it_PPH1 ,_, if_CS it_PPH1 could_VM )_) is_VBZ pleasurable_JJ ._. 
It_PPH1 is_VBZ as_RG enjoyable_JJ as_CSA feeling_VVG gently_RR hungry_JJ or_CC amorous_JJ ._. 
No_UH ,_, not_XX amorous_JJ :_: randy_JJ we_PPIS2 have_VH0 a_AT1 word_NN1 for_IF that_DD1 ._. 
Any_DD of_IO these_DD2 conditions_NN2 is_VBZ pleasurable_JJ so_RG long_RR as_CSA there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 good_JJ likelihood_NN1 of_IO satisfaction_NN1 in_II reasonably_RR short_JJ order_NN1 ._. 
Let_VV0 puritans_NN2 and_CC pessimists_NN2 damn_VVI ,_, disapprove_VV0 or_CC dismiss_VV0 these_DD2 appetites_NN2 ;_; that_DD1 is_VBZ their_APPGE loss_NN1 ._. 
Those_DD2 of_IO us_PPIO2 who_PNQS enjoy_VV0 them_PPHO2 need_VV0 only_RR a_AT1 name_NN1 for_IF each_DD1 condition_NN1 ,_, so_CS21 that_CS22 we_PPIS2 may_VM discuss_VVI them_PPHO2 in_II expectation_NN1 and_CC in_II recollection_NN1 ._. 
Come_VV0 to_TO think_VVI of_IO it_PPH1 ,_, neither_RR hunger_NN1 nor_CC randiness_NN1 hits_VVZ quite_RG the_AT spot_NN1 ._. 
Peckishness_NN1 and_CC lust_NN1 ,_, perhaps_RR ?_? 
Or_CC does_VDZ that_DD1 sound_VVI like_II a_AT1 firm_NN1 of_IO country_NN1 solicitors_NN2 ?_? 
This_DD1 is_VBZ to_TO digress_VVI ._. 
What_DDQ of_IO this_DD1 thirst_NN1 that_CST can_VM be_VBI satisfied_VVN by_II an_AT1 unquenching_JJ drink_NN1 ?_? 
Wine_NN1 is_VBZ not_XX quenching_VVG ,_, but_CCB no_AT less_DAR in_II demand_NN1 for_IF that_DD1 ._. 
Try_VV0 to_TO quench_VVI your_APPGE thirst_NN1 with_IW a_AT1 light_NN1 ,_, fresh_JJ white_JJ and_CC you_PPY will_VM drink_VVI enough_DD to_TO put_VVI you_PPY on_II your_APPGE back_NN1 ._. 
Beer_NN1 is_VBZ ,_, quite_RG rightly_RR ,_, Britain_NP1 's_GE favourite_JJ Friday_NPD1 night_NNT1 drink_NN1 ._. 
It_PPH1 can_VM momentarily_RR blunt_VVI a_AT1 thirst_NN1 ,_, but_CCB not_XX altogether_RR cut_VV0 it_PPH1 ._. 
The_AT nearest_II21 to_II22 being_VBG quenching_JJ is_VBZ the_AT '_GE white_NN1 '_GE beer_NN1 of_IO Berlin_NP1 ._. 
Anything_PN1 with_IW even_RR a_AT1 modest_JJ smack_NN1 of_IO hops_NN2 dries_VVZ the_AT palate_NN1 ready_JJ for_IF the_AT next_MD one_PN1 ._. 
So_RR ,_, of_RR21 course_RR22 ,_, does_VDZ alcohol_NN1 itself_PPX1 ._. 
It_PPH1 may_VM for_IF a_AT1 moment_NN1 seem_VV0 to_TO quench_VVI but_CCB it_PPH1 dehydrates_VVZ ,_, as_CSA purportedly_RR healthy_JJ abstainers_NN2 are_VBR forever_RT telling_VVG me_PPIO1 ._. 
To_TO quench_VVI is_VBZ more_DAR than_CSN to_TO refresh_VVI although_CS our_APPGE lying_NN1 ,_, lascivious_JJ eyes_NN2 tell_VV0 us_PPIO2 the_AT two_MC are_VBR the_AT same_DA ._. 
Does_VDZ any_RR drink_VVI look_NN1 more_RGR quenching_JJ than_CSN one_MC1 of_IO those_DD2 Italian_JJ or_CC French_JJ patent_NN1 aperitifs_NN2 ,_, swirling_VVG in_II a_AT1 refractive_JJ pink_JJ or_CC russet_JJ oiliness_NN1 ,_, clothing_VVG the_AT melting_NN1 ice_NN1 :_: a_AT1 Campari_NN1 ,_, Dubonnet_NP1 ,_, Lillet_NP1 or_CC (_( too_RG rare_JJ in_II this_DD1 country_NN1 )_) a_AT1 Picon_NN1 ?_? 
Are_VBR they_PPHS2 quenching_VVG ?_? 
No_UH ,_, refreshing_JJ ._. 
In_II Strasburg_NP1 ,_, they_PPHS2 have_VH0 been_VBN known_VVN to_II lace_NN1 beer_NN1 with_IW Picon_NP1 ,_, thereby_RR ruining_VVG both_DB2 drinks_NN2 (_( as_CSA Queen_NNB Victoria_NP1 reputedly_RR did_VDD with_IW claret_NN1 and_CC malt_NN1 whisky_NN1 )_) ,_, but_CCB still_RR the_AT result_NN1 is_VBZ not_XX especially_RR quenching_VVG ._. 
Perhaps_RR a_AT1 shimmering_JJ dry_JJ Martini_NN1 cocktail_NN1 (_( minimum_JJ dilution_NN1 ,_, stirred_VVD ,_, not_XX shaken_VVN ;_; and_CC served_VVN straight_RR up_RP )_) looks_VVZ even_RR more_RGR refreshing_JJ ,_, though_CS its_APPGE effect_NN1 is_VBZ that_DD1 of_IO a_AT1 silver_NN1 mallet_NN1 ._. 
In_II the_AT right_JJ place_NN1 (_( possibly_RR New_NP1 York_NP1 ,_, but_CCB San_NP1 Francisco_NP1 is_VBZ better_JJR )_) ,_, the_AT Martini_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT ultimate_JJ '_GE Thank_VV0 God_NP1 it_PPH1 's_VBZ Friday_NPD1 '_GE drink_NN1 ._. 
The_AT requirement_NN1 for_IF such_DA pleasures_NN2 is_VBZ a_AT1 matter_NN1 of_IO time_NNT1 and_CC place_NN1 ,_, and_CC it_PPH1 does_VDZ not_XX have_VHI to_TO be_VBI Friday_NPD1 ,_, Berlin_NP1 or_CC Strasburg_NP1 ,_, New_NP1 York_NP1 or_CC San_NP1 Francisco_NP1 ._. 
Not_XX feeling_VVG thirsty_JJ ,_, but_CCB fancying_VVG a_AT1 drink_NN1 ,_, has_VHZ a_AT1 world_NN1 of_IO moments_NN2 ._. 
Some_DD Frenchmen_NN2 start_VV0 the_AT day_NNT1 with_IW a_AT1 coffee_NN1 and_CC calvados_NN1 ._. 
The_AT people_NN of_IO Munich_NP1 call_VV0 their_APPGE version_NN1 of_IO Weissbier_NP1 '_GE breakfast_NN1 beer_NN1 '_GE and_CC have_VH0 it_PPH1 with_IW a_AT1 pair_NN of_IO coddled_JJ veal_NN1 sausages_NN2 ._. 
New_NP1 Orleans_NP1 favours_VVZ a_AT1 mid-morning_NNT1 milk_NN1 punch_NN1 ,_, or_CC its_APPGE own_DA variation_NN1 on_II the_AT gin_NN1 fizz_NN1 ._. 
If_CS the_AT moment_NN1 is_VBZ before_II a_AT1 lunch_NN1 on_II the_AT plane_NN1 ,_, it_PPH1 really_RR ought_VMK to_TO be_VBI a_AT1 Bloody_JJ Mary_NP1 ._. 
If_CS it_PPH1 is_VBZ at_II an_AT1 elegant_JJ dinner_NN1 table_NN1 ,_, there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 choice_NN1 between_II a_AT1 fino_NN1 sherry_NN1 (_( or_CC a_AT1 manzanilla_NN1 )_) or_CC champagne_NN1 ._. 
None_PN of_IO these_DD2 requires_VVZ anything_PN1 even_RR approaching_VVG a_AT1 thirst_NN1 ._. 
Do_VD0 we_PPIS2 really_RR '_GE wash_NN1 down_NN1 '_GE a_AT1 good_JJ meal_NN1 with_IW claret_NN1 ?_? 
Port_NN1 is_VBZ immediately_RR suggested_VVN by_II Stilton_NP1 ;_; cognac_NN1 by_II coffee_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 do_VD0 not_XX fully_RR appreciate_VVI the_AT experience_NN1 of_IO an_AT1 American_JJ late-night_JJ movie_NN1 without_IW a_AT1 bourbon_NN1 ,_, or_CC a_AT1 book_NN1 at_II bedtime_NNT1 without_IW a_AT1 single_JJ malt_NN1 ._. 
These_DD2 are_VBR not_XX moments_NN2 of_IO thirst_NN1 ..._... but_CCB nor_CC are_VBR they_PPHS2 causes_NN2 of_IO drunkenness_NN1 (_( unless_CS one_PN1 tries_VVZ to_TO pack_VVI all_DB such_DA experiences_NN2 into_II one_MC1 day_NNT1 )_) ._. 
We_PPIS2 do_VD0 not_XX drink_VVI because_CS we_PPIS2 are_VBR thirsty_JJ ._. 
Nor_CC ,_, if_CS we_PPIS2 are_VBR in_II civilised_JJ cast_NN1 of_IO mind_NN1 ,_, because_CS we_PPIS2 wish_VV0 to_TO become_VVI drunk_JJ ._. 
A_AT1 friend_NN1 of_IO mine_PPGE says_VVZ that_CST her_APPGE body_NN1 tells_VVZ her_PPHO1 ,_, without_IW being_VBG asked_VVN ,_, the_AT season_NNT1 of_IO the_AT year_NNT1 ._. 
At_II the_AT end_NN1 of_IO summer_NNT1 ,_, her_APPGE body_NN1 stops_VVZ wanting_JJ gin_NN1 and_CC tonics_NN2 and_CC suddenly_RR desires_VVZ whisky_NN1 ._. 
If_CS it_PPH1 were_VBDR only_RR a_AT1 matter_NN1 of_IO alcohol_NN1 ,_, would_VM a_AT1 body_NN1 care_VVI ?_? 
People_NN will_VM nevertheless_RR say_VVI that_CST the_AT desire_NN1 is_VBZ for_IF nothing_PN1 more_DAR than_CSN alcohol_NN1 ._. 
So_RR why_RRQ not_XX a_AT1 pill_NN1 or_CC an_AT1 injection_NN1 ?_? 
Because_CS there_EX would_VM be_VBI no_AT colour_NN1 ,_, no_AT ritual_NN1 ,_, no_AT time_NNT1 and_CC place_NN1 ,_, no_AT glorious_JJ variety_NN1 ._. 
Worst_JJT of_IO all_DB ,_, there_EX would_VM be_VBI no_AT aroma_NN1 ,_, taste_NN1 ,_, texture_NN1 or_CC finish_NN1 ._. 
These_DD2 are_VBR sensuous_JJ pleasures_NN2 at_II their_APPGE most_RGT enjoyable_JJ when_CS we_PPIS2 ritualise_VV0 them_PPHO2 ,_, but_CCB how_RRQ do_VD0 we_PPIS2 feel_VVI when_RRQ we_PPIS2 desire_VV0 them_PPHO2 ?_? 
We_PPIS2 ,_, who_PNQS have_VH0 so_RG many_DA2 words_NN2 in_II our_APPGE language_NN1 ,_, have_VH0 none_PN for_IF this_DD1 ._. 
But_CCB then_RT ,_, do_VD0 the_AT French_NN1 ,_, Spanish_JJ or_CC Italians_NN2 have_VH0 a_AT1 word_NN1 for_IF it_PPH1 ?_? 
Perhaps_RR they_PPHS2 do_VD0 ;_; maybe_RR I_PPIS1 have_VH0 not_XX being_VBG paying_JJ attention_NN1 ;_; too_RG busy_JJ with_IW the_AT eau-de-vie_VV0 ,_, anis_NN1 or_CC grappa_NN1 ._. 
Do_VD0 the_AT Greeks_NN2 have_VHI a_AT1 word_NN1 for_IF it_PPH1 ?_? 
Could_VM we_PPIS2 borrow_VVI ,_, beg_VV0 or_CC invent_VV0 one_PN1 ?_? 
Answers_NN2 in_II a_AT1 bottle_NN1 ,_, please_RR ._. 
If_CS you_PPY are_VBR feeling_VVG for_IF lack_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 better_JJR word_NN1 -thirsty_JJ ,_, let_VM21 's_VM22 meet_VVI again_RT next_MD month_NNT1 ._. 
Same_DA time_NNT1 ,_, same_DA place_NN1 ?_? 
It_PPH1 will_VM be_VBI my_APPGE turn_NN1 to_TO get_VVI them_PPHO2 in_RP ,_, I_PPIS1 think_VV0 ._. 
Food_NN1 and_CC Drink_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Menu_NN1 for_IF number_NN1 10_MC By_II MICHAEL_NP1 JACKSON_NP1 THE_AT silly_JJ question_NN1 is_VBZ an_AT1 essential_JJ ingredient_NN1 to_II most_DAT competitions_NN2 ._. 
In_II the_AT case_NN1 of_IO the_AT last_MD round_NN1 of_IO the_AT Young_JJ Cook_NN1 of_IO Britain_NP1 competition_NN1 ,_, to_TO be_VBI judged_VVN on_II 17_MC October_NPM1 ,_, regional_JJ finalists_NN2 were_VBDR asked_VVN which_DDQ famous_JJ person_NN1 they_PPHS2 would_VM like_VVI to_TO cook_VVI for_IF ._. 
Julia_NP1 Noon_NNT1 ,_, aged_II 12_MC ,_, of_IO St_NP1 Anne_NP1 's_GE on_II Sea_NN1 ,_, Lancashire_NP1 ,_, took_VVD the_AT politic_JJ and_CC patriotic_JJ route_NN1 and_CC wrote_VVD to_II 10_MC Downing_NP1 Street_NNL1 to_TO find_VVI out_RP the_AT Prime_JJ Minister_NN1 's_GE favourite_JJ foods_NN2 ._. 
She_PPHS1 received_VVD a_AT1 reply_NN1 within_II four_MC days_NNT2 ._. 
Food_NN1 and_CC Drink_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Seriously_RR Spanish_JJ By_II MICHAEL_NP1 JACKSON_NP1 AS_CSA CHEAP_JJ and_CC ersatz_JJ tapas_NN2 bars_NN2 continue_VV0 to_TO pop_VVI up_RP on_II London_NP1 street_NN1 corners_NN2 ,_, it_PPH1 is_VBZ easy_JJ to_TO overlook_VVI serious_JJ Spanish_JJ food_NN1 ._. 
Benat_VV0 Arroyabe_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 young_JJ chef_NN1 from_II San_NP1 Sebastian_NP1 ,_, proved_VVD a_AT1 notable_JJ exception_NN1 during_II the_AT last_MD year_NNT1 by_II producing_VVG food_NN1 of_IO great_JJ elegance_NN1 and_CC flavour_NN1 (_( witness_VV0 capiscums_NN2 filled_VVN with_IW fresh_JJ cod_NN and_CC parsley_NN1 sauce_NN1 )_) in_II the_AT Basque-oriented_JJ Guernica_NP1 restaurant_NN1 at_II 21a_FO Foley_NP1 Street_NNL1 ,_, London_NP1 W1_FO (_( 01-580_MCMC 0623_MC )_) ._. 
Jose_NP1 Ramon_NP1 ,_, a_AT1 new_JJ chef_NN1 who_PNQS arrived_VVD at_II the_AT Guernica_NP1 two_MC months_NNT2 ago_RA ,_, will_VM hopefully_RR maintain_VVI these_DD2 high_JJ standards_NN2 ._. 
Another_DD1 breeze_NN1 from_II the_AT Basque_JJ country_NN1 ,_, this_DD1 one_PN1 long-awaited_JJ ,_, will_VM be_VBI felt_VVN in_II the_AT cookery_NN1 world_NN1 from_II 12_MC October_NPM1 with_IW the_AT publication_NN1 of_IO Maria_NP1 Jose_NP1 Sevilla_NP1 's_GE Life_NN1 and_CC Food_NN1 in_II the_AT Basque_JJ Country_NN1 (_( Weidenfeld_NP1 &amp;_CC Nicolson_NP1 ,_, 12.95_MC )_) ._. 
The_AT author_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 co-founder_NN1 of_IO the_AT information_NN1 department_NN1 promoting_VVG Spanish_JJ food_NN1 in_II Britain_NP1 ,_, has_VHZ refrained_VVN from_II the_AT greasy_JJ chorizo_NN1 and_CC rough_JJ rioja_NN1 marketing_NN1 rush_NN1 ._. 
Instead_RR ,_, she_PPHS1 has_VHZ spent_VVN the_AT last_MD two_MC years_NNT2 working_VVG on_II a_AT1 book_NN1 chronicling_VVG Basque_JJ life_NN1 through_II its_APPGE kitchens_NN2 and_CC markets_NN2 ._. 
Food_NN1 and_CC Drink_VV0 Update_NN1 :_: Small_NP1 beginnings_NN2 By_II MICHAEL_NP1 JACKSON_NP1 THE_AT restaurant_NN1 industry_NN1 has_VHZ two_MC things_NN2 in_II31 common_II32 with_II33 the_AT film_NN1 industry_NN1 :_: the_AT high_JJ failure_NN1 rate_NN1 among_II its_APPGE small_JJ businesses_NN2 and_CC the_AT abundance_NN1 of_IO '_" how_RRQ to_TO '_GE wisdom_NN1 ._. 
The_AT message_NN1 behind_II '_" How_RRQ to_TO open_VVI and_CC operate_VVI a_AT1 small_JJ restaurant_NN1 '_GE a_AT1 series_NN of_IO six_MC lectures_NN2 in_II Chester_NP1 organised_VVD by_II Leith_NP1 's_GE School_NN1 of_IO Food_NN1 and_CC Wine_NN1 may_VM well_RR be_VBI chapter_NN1 and_CC verse_NN1 on_II '_" how_RRQ not_XX to_TO '_GE ._. 
The_AT lecturer_NN1 ,_, Martin_NP1 Wood_NP1 ,_, counts_VVZ equally_RR successful_JJ those_DD2 students_NN2 of_IO the_AT courses_NN2 he_PPHS1 has_VHZ given_VVN since_II 1984_MC ,_, at_II Leith_NP1 's_GE School_NN1 of_IO Food_NN1 and_CC Wine_NN1 in_II London_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS subsequently_RR decided_VVN not_XX to_TO open_VVI restaurants_NN2 ._. 
Mr_NNB Wood_NP1 's_GE own_DA experience_NN1 in_II the_AT restaurant_NN1 business_NN1 spans_VVZ 20_MC years_NNT2 ._. 
Numbering_VVG among_II those_DD2 of_IO his_APPGE students_NN2 who_PNQS have_VH0 opened_VVN restaurants_NN2 is_VBZ Sian_NP1 Sutherland-Dodd_NP1 ,_, whose_DDQGE London_NP1 restaurant_NN1 ,_, Sutherlands_NP2 ,_, was_VBDZ named_VVN 1989_MC Soho_NP1 Newcomer_NN1 of_IO the_AT Year_NNT1 by_II The_AT Good_JJ Food_NN1 Guide_NN1 ._. 
'_GE The_AT course_NN1 is_VBZ good_JJ because_CS it_PPH1 makes_VVZ you_PPY think_VVI about_II things_NN2 like_II how_RRQ to_TO lay_VVI out_RP a_AT1 kitchen_NN1 ,_, '_GE Ms_NNB Sutherland-Dodd_NP1 says_VVZ ._. 
She_PPHS1 recommends_VVZ as_RG essential_JJ ,_, however_RR ,_, working_VVG in_II someone_PN1 else_RR 's_GE restaurant_NN1 first_MD ,_, as_CSA she_PPHS1 did_VDD in_II Nick_NP1 Lander_NN1 's_GE L'Escargot_NP1 ._. 
Martin_NP1 Wood_NP1 's_GE course_NN1 begins_VVZ on_II 1_MC1 November_NPM1 ,_, running_VVG six_MC consecutive_JJ Wednesdays_NPD2 at_II the_AT Greenbank_NN1 Centre_NN1 ,_, Eaton_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, Chester_NP1 ,_, Cheshire_NP1 ,_, from_II 6.30pm_RA ._. 
Fee_NN1 175_MC ._. 
Drink_VV0 :_: October_NPM1 wine_NN1 rack_NN1 By_II ANTHONY_NP1 ROSE_VVD AS_CSA WE_PPIS2 reported_VVD at_II the_AT beginning_NN1 of_IO September_NPM1 ,_, an_AT1 increase_NN1 in_II the_AT fixed_JJ price_NN1 agreed_VVD each_DD1 year_NNT1 between_II Champagne_NN1 's_GE growers_NN2 and_CC merchants_NN2 seemed_VVD inevitable_JJ ,_, putting_VVG further_JJR pressure_NN1 on_II prices_NN2 that_CST are_VBR already_RR affected_VVN by_II rising_VVG demand_NN1 ._. 
Sure_JJ enough_RR ,_, due_II21 to_II22 prospects_NN2 this_DD1 year_NNT1 of_IO a_AT1 vintage_NN1 declaration_NN1 and_CC an_AT1 estimated_JJ shortfall_NN1 of_IO supply_NN1 over_II demand_NN1 (_( although_CS the_AT latest_JJT estimated_JJ harvest_NN1 figure_NN1 has_VHZ gone_VVN up_RP from_II 250_MC to_II 274_MC million_NNO bottles_NN2 )_) ,_, the_AT price_NN1 per_II kilo_NNU1 of_IO grapes_NN2 was_VBDZ fixed_VVN at_II 26.77_MC French_JJ francs_NNU2 ,_, a_AT1 13.78_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 increase_NN1 over_II last_MD year_NNT1 ._. 
Among_II the_AT champagne_NN1 houses_NN2 that_CST have_VH0 already_RR increased_VVN their_APPGE prices_NN2 to_II the_AT wine_NN1 trade_NN1 are_VBR Moet_NP1 et_NP1 Chandon_NP1 (_( 9.6_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) ,_, Laurent_NP1 Perrier_NP1 (_( 4.9_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) ,_, Bollinger_NP1 (_( about_RG 3_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) and_CC Lanson_NP1 (_( about_RG 4_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) ._. 
The_AT following_JJ companies_NN2 are_VBR planning_VVG further_RRR increases_VVZ in_II the_AT new_JJ year_NNT1 as_RR21 well_RR22 :_: Mumm_NP1 (_( about_RG 4_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) and_CC Heidsieck_NP1 Monopole_NP1 (_( about_RG 4_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 )_) ._. 
Those_DD2 holding_VVG their_APPGE prices_NN2 ,_, at_RR21 least_RR22 until_CS the_AT new_JJ year_NNT1 ,_, include_VV0 Veuve_NP1 Clicquot_NP1 and_CC Perrier-Jouet_NP1 ._. 
Even_RR where_CS price_NN1 increases_NN2 have_VH0 taken_VVN place_NN1 ,_, retailers_NN2 with_IW good_JJ stocks_NN2 may_VM be_VBI able_JK to_TO cushion_VVI the_AT blow_NN1 for_IF a_AT1 while_NNT1 ._. 
But_CCB with_IW Christmas_NNT1 not_XX that_RG far_RR off_RP ,_, some_DD forward_JJ champagne_NN1 planning_NN1 is_VBZ definitely_RR in_II order_NN1 ._. 
An_AT1 impressive_JJ new_JJ range_NN1 comes_VVZ from_II Thresher_NP1 's_GE five_MC new_JJ Wine_NN1 Rack_NN1 stores_NN2 (_( four_MC in_II London_NP1 ,_, one_MC1 in_II Gerrards_NP1 Cross_NP1 )_) which_DDQ ,_, with_IW a_AT1 12.5_MC per_NNU21 cent_NNU22 case_NN1 discount_NN1 ,_, aim_VV0 to_TO offer_VVI the_AT cheapest_JJT champagne_NN1 prices_NN2 in_II the_AT high_JJ street_NN1 ._. 
Two_MC of_IO the_AT best-value_JJ offers_NN2 in_II the_AT Wine_NN1 Rack_NN1 are_VBR the_AT attractive_JJ Bricourt_NP1 Carte_NP1 Noire_NP1 (_( 9.99_MC bottle/_NN1 8.74_MC case_NN1 bottle_NN1 )_) and_CC Charles_NP1 Heidsieck_NP1 1982_MC ,_, a_AT1 classy_JJ ,_, golden_JJ vintage_NN1 champagne_NN1 (_( 12.99_MC bottle/_NN1 11.37_MC case_NN1 bottle_NN1 )_) ._. 
Also_RR worth_II seeking_VVG out_RP is_VBZ Victoria_NP1 Wine_NN1 's_GE new_JJ 1983_MC vintage_JJ champagne_NN1 with_IW its_APPGE classic_NN1 '_GE biscuity_NN1 '_GE character_NN1 (_( 11.99_MC )_) as_CSA is_VBZ Waitrose_NP1 's_GE rich_JJ ,_, winy_NN1 1983_MC Extra_JJ Dry_JJ vintage_NN1 fizz_NN1 (_( 10.50_MC )_) ._. 
And_CC now_RT for_IF something_PN1 completely_RR different_JJ :_: cheap_JJ and_CC cheerful_JJ claret_NN1 ._. 
Two_MC good_JJ examples_NN2 from_II Victoria_NP1 Wine_NN1 are_VBR its_APPGE house_NN1 claret_NN1 ,_, juicy_JJ and_CC a_AT1 touch_NN1 almondy_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 good_JJ buy_VV0 at_II 2.89_MC ;_; and_CC Baron_NNB Rocheau_NP1 1988_MC ,_, 2.49_MC ,_, which_DDQ is_VBZ soft_JJ ,_, a_AT1 touch_NN1 green_NN1 and_CC stalky_JJ ,_, but_CCB still_RR good_JJ value_NN1 ._. 
Also_RR from_II selected_JJ Victoria_NP1 Wine_NN1 stores_NN2 is_VBZ a_AT1 sauternes_NN2 in_II half-bottles_NN2 with_IW all_DB the_AT creamy_JJ ,_, nutty_JJ complexity_NN1 you_PPY might_VM expect_VVI from_II a_AT1 more_RGR elevated_JJ chateau_NN1 ,_, a_AT1 snip_NN1 at_II 2.99_MC ._. 
Going_VVG Out_RP to_TO Eat_VV0 and_CC Drink_VV0 :_: Days_NNT2 of_IO pie_NN1 and_CC mash_VV0 :_: Susan_NP1 Ellicott_NP1 tucks_VVZ into_II plates_NN2 of_IO British_JJ tradition_NN1 By_II SUSAN_NP1 ELLICOTT_NP1 ONE_MC1 PIE_NN1 ,_, one_MC1 mash_NN1 ._. 
One_MC1 pie_NN1 ,_, two_MC mash_NN1 ._. 
Two_MC pie_NN1 ,_, one_MC1 mash_NN1 ._. 
Two_MC pie_NN1 ,_, two_MC mash_NN1 ._. 
The_AT menu_NN1 at_II Manze_NP1 's_GE ,_, in_II London_NP1 's_GE Tower_NP1 Bridge_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, by_II Bermondsey_NP1 Antiques_NN2 Market_VV0 ,_, may_VM not_XX be_VBI extensive_JJ but_CCB at_II 1.20_MC for_IF one_MC1 pie_NN1 ,_, one_MC1 mash_NN1 -_- sloshed_VVD with_IW parsley_NN1 sauce_NN1 there_EX is_VBZ little_DA1 reason_NN1 for_IF customers_NN2 to_TO argue_VVI ._. 
'_GE Well_NN1 ,_, there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 choice_NN1 ,_, '_" says_VVZ Graham_NP1 Poole_NP1 ,_, whose_DDQGE grandfather_NN1 started_VVD the_AT shop_NN1 in_II 1895_MC ._. 
'_" They_PPHS2 can_VM take_VVI it_PPH1 or_CC leave_VV0 it_PPH1 ._. 
'_" This_DD1 is_VBZ a_AT1 no-nonsense_JJ restaurant_NN1 full_JJ of_IO regulars_NN2 :_: a_AT1 child_NN1 on_II Dad_NN1 's_GE shoulders_NN2 ;_; teenagers_NN2 in_II Day-Glo_NP1 shorts_NN2 who_PNQS skateboard_VV0 away_RL afterwards_RT ;_; workmen_NN2 in_II overalls_NN2 ;_; weary_JJ shoppers_NN2 with_IW bulky_JJ carrier_NN1 bags_NN2 stopping_VVG off_RP before_II getting_VVG the_AT bus_NN1 home_RL ._. 
The_AT lunch_NN1 hour_NNT1 is_VBZ like_II a_AT1 time_NNT1 warp_NN1 give_VV0 or_CC take_VV0 a_AT1 few_DA2 price_NN1 increases_NN2 ._. 
The_AT walls_NN2 are_VBR covered_VVN with_IW original_JJ cream_NN1 and_CC emerald_NN1 tiles_NN2 ._. 
Without_IW the_AT restaurant_NN1 's_GE 10_MC grey_JJ and_CC white_JJ marble_NN1 tables_NN2 ,_, wooden_JJ pew-like_JJ seats_NN2 and_CC two_MC whirring_VVG overhead_JJ fans_NN2 ,_, the_AT interior_NN1 would_VM have_VHI the_AT atmosphere_NN1 of_IO a_AT1 beautiful_JJ and_CC meticulously_RR clean_JJ Victorian_JJ public_JJ convenience_NN1 ._. 
'_GE The_AT hardest_JJT thing_NN1 is_VBZ keeping_VVG it_PPH1 looking_VVG the_AT same_DA ,_, '_" says_VVZ Mr_NNB Poole_NP1 ,_, '_GE mainly_RR because_II21 of_II22 modern_JJ health_NN1 and_CC safety_NN1 regulations_NN2 ._. 
'_" He_PPHS1 winces_VVZ as_CSA he_PPHS1 recounts_VVZ how_RRQ builders_NN2 recently_RR suggested_VVD he_PPHS1 replace_VV0 the_AT '_GE M._NN1 Manze_NP1 '_GE above_II the_AT door_NN1 in_II gold-leaf_NN1 on_II glass_NN1 with_IW a_AT1 plastic_NN1 sign_NN1 ._. 
Someone_PN1 else_RR quoted_VVD him_PPHO1 30_MC to_TO replace_VVI a_AT1 broken_JJ fan_NN1 ._. 
Imagining_VVG his_APPGE grandfather_NN1 turning_VVG in_II his_APPGE grave_NN1 at_II the_AT very_JJ thought_NN1 ,_, he_PPHS1 paid_VVD 120_MC to_TO repair_VVI the_AT old_JJ one_PN1 ._. 
Generations_NN2 of_IO customers_NN2 will_VM thank_VVI him_PPHO1 ._. 
Many_DA2 remember_VV0 eating_VVG jellied_JJ eels_NN2 still_RR on_II the_AT menu_NN1 ,_, along_II21 with_II22 eels_NN2 and_CC mash_VV0 with_IW their_APPGE parents_NN2 ._. 
And_CC the_AT restaurant_NN1 is_VBZ often_RR crowded_VVN with_IW aficionados_NN2 getting_VVG their_APPGE fix_NN1 of_IO nostalgia_NN1 ._. 
A_AT1 novice_NN1 struggling_VVG through_II one_MC1 of_IO Manze_NP1 's_GE pies_NN2 crisp_VV0 golden_JJ pastry_NN1 on_II top_NN1 and_CC soggy_JJ pastry_NN1 below_RL is_VBZ quickly_RR spotted_VVN and_CC given_VVN a_AT1 cursory_JJ instruction_NN1 in_II the_AT art_NN1 of_IO pie-eating_NN1 by_II a_AT1 Bermondsey-born_JJ professional_JJ ._. 
'_" You_PPY do_VD0 n't_XX look_VVI like_CS you_PPY 're_VBR enjoying_VVG that_DD1 ._. 
That_DD1 's_VBZ because_CS you_PPY did_VDD n't_XX put_VVI vinegar_NN1 on_II it_PPH1 ._. 
You_PPY sprinkle_VV0 it_PPH1 on_RP and_CC then_RT cut_VV0 the_AT pie_NN1 into_II pieces_NN2 ._. 
'_GE But_CCB why_RRQ the_AT soft_JJ pastry_NN1 ?_? 
'_" Why_RRQ do_VD0 Beefeaters_NP2 wear_VVI those_DD2 silly_JJ hats_NN2 and_CC hang_VVI around_RP the_AT Tower_NN1 of_IO London_NP1 ?_? 
It_PPH1 's_VBZ tradition_NN1 ,_, is_VBZ n't_XX it_PPH1 ?_? '_" says_VVZ Dennis_NP1 Thompson_NP1 ,_, an_AT1 ambulance_NN1 driver_NN1 who_PNQS eats_VVZ at_II Manze_NP1 's_VBZ at_RR21 least_RR22 three_MC times_NNT2 a_AT1 week_NNT1 ._. 
He_PPHS1 mops_VVZ his_APPGE brow_NN1 as_CSA he_PPHS1 demolishes_VVZ a_AT1 double_JJ helping_NN1 of_IO pie_NN1 ,_, salty_JJ mash_NN1 and_CC pale_JJ green_JJ gravy_NN1 ._. 
'_GE At_II home_NN1 you_PPY can_VM never_RR get_VVI the_AT gravy_NN1 like_CS they_PPHS2 do_VD0 here_RL ,_, '_" confides_VVZ one_MC1 elderly_JJ woman_NN1 ._. 
'_" They_PPHS2 use_VV0 the_AT water_NN1 from_II the_AT jellied_JJ eels_NN2 ._. 
'_GE Mr_NNB Poole_NP1 ,_, however_RR ,_, is_VBZ not_XX giving_VVG away_RL any_DD secrets_NN2 ._. 
He_PPHS1 is_VBZ none_PN too_RG pleased_JJ that_CST one_MC1 of_IO the_AT waitresses_NN2 has_VHZ let_VVN on_RP that_CST the_AT pies_NN2 are_VBR made_VVN with_IW two_MC different_JJ pastries_NN2 ._. 
Outsiders_NN2 are_VBR not_XX invited_VVN into_II the_AT basement_NN1 kitchen_NN1 ._. 
'_" We_PPIS2 've_VH0 always_RR used_VVN the_AT same_DA recipe_NN1 ,_, '_" he_PPHS1 says_VVZ ._. 
Scotch_JJ beef_NN1 comes_VVZ from_II Smithfield_NP1 Market_NN1 ,_, fresh_JJ each_DD1 day_NNT1 ,_, boned_VVD and_CC minced_JJ ._. 
The_AT vinegar_NN1 one_MC1 plain_NN1 and_CC one_PN1 with_IW chilli_NN1 comes_VVZ in_II whisky_NN1 bottles_NN2 ._. 
Two_MC gallons_NNU2 are_VBR used_VVN daily_RR ._. 
Salt_NN1 and_CC pepper_NN1 sit_VV0 on_II the_AT tables_NN2 in_II old_JJ jam-jars_NN2 :_: '_GE The_AT biggest_JJT containers_NN2 possible_JJ and_CC they_PPHS2 still_RR get_VV0 nicked_VVN ,_, '_" says_VVZ Mr_NNB Poole_NP1 ._. 
On_II Saturdays_NPD2 ,_, hungry_JJ customers_NN2 queue_VV0 along_RP the_AT pavement_NN1 beneath_II Manze_NP1 's_GE green_JJ awning_NN1 that_CST is_VBZ sandwiched_VVN between_II a_AT1 dry-cleaner_NN1 's_GE and_CC a_AT1 men_NN2 's_GE clothing_NN1 store_NN1 ._. 
The_AT smell_NN1 of_IO stewed_JJ eels_NN2 streams_NN2 from_II a_AT1 steaming_JJ vat_NN1 into_II the_AT busy_JJ street_NN1 ._. 
Even_RR the_AT late_JJ Roy_NP1 Orbison_NP1 has_VHZ eaten_VVN pie_NN1 and_CC mash_VV0 here_RL ._. 
He_PPHS1 turned_VVD up_RP unannounced_JJ one_MC1 day_NNT1 ,_, during_II a_AT1 break_NN1 from_II a_AT1 television_NN1 appearance_NN1 ,_, with_IW a_AT1 minder_NN1 who_PNQS wanted_VVD to_TO give_VVI him_PPHO1 a_AT1 taste_NN1 of_IO real_JJ working-class_JJ London_NP1 ._. 
A_AT1 youthful_JJ '_GE Big_JJ O_ZZ1 '_GE smiles_NN2 from_II a_AT1 signed_JJ photograph_NN1 among_II the_AT plastic_NN1 bottles_NN2 behind_II the_AT counter_NN1 ._. 
'_GE The_AT trouble_NN1 is_VBZ ,_, '_" says_VVZ Mr_NNB Poole_NP1 ,_, '_GE people_NN say_VV0 now_RT ,_, '_" How_RGQ long_RR before_CS he_PPHS1 died_VVD did_VDD he_PPHS1 come_VVI here_RL ?_? 
'_" '_GE Manze_NN1 's_GE ,_, 87_MC Tower_NP1 Bridge_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, London_NP1 SE1_FO (_( 01-407_MCMC 2985_MC )_) ._. 
Open_VV0 Mon_NPD1 11am-2pm_RA ,_, Tues-Thur_NP1 from_II 10.30am_RA ,_, Fri-Sat_JJ 10am-2.30pm_RA ._. 
Going_VVG Out_RP to_TO Eat_VV0 and_CC Drink_VV0 :_: Old_JJ delis_NN2 at_II the_AT centre_NN1 of_IO the_AT soul_NN1 system_NN1 :_: Delicatessens_NP2 are_VBR the_AT culinary_JJ outposts_NN2 of_IO our_APPGE European_JJ immigrants_NN2 ._. 
Ellen_NP1 Galford_NP1 joins_VVZ the_AT queues_NN2 in_II Scotland_NP1 to_TO buy_VVI heritage_NN1 over_II the_AT counter_NN1 By_II ELLEN_NP1 GALFORD_NP1 FOR_IF immigrant_JJ communities_NN2 Italians_NN2 ,_, Jews_NN2 ,_, and_CC others_NN2 who_PNQS have_VH0 the_AT passion_NN1 for_RR21 good_RR22 ,_, simple_JJ food_NN1 bred_VVN into_II their_APPGE souls_NN2 a_AT1 traditional_JJ delicatessen_NN1 is_VBZ the_AT centre_NN1 of_IO the_AT universe_NN1 ._. 
The_AT name_NN1 of_IO the_AT old_JJ homeland_NN1 may_VM have_VHI been_VBN wiped_VVN off_II the_AT map_NN1 ,_, the_AT native_JJ Tuscan_JJ village_NN1 may_VM have_VHI mutated_VVN into_II Chiantishire_NP1 ,_, but_CCB in_II London_NP1 's_GE Soho_NP1 or_CC downtown_JJ Manhattan_NP1 ,_, in_II Glasgow_NP1 or_CC in_II East_ND1 Coast_NN1 America_NP1 's_GE polyglot_NN1 suburbs_NN2 ,_, these_DD2 are_VBR the_AT places_NN2 where_RRQ history_NN1 private_NN1 and_CC collective_NN1 is_VBZ still_RR alive_JJ ._. 
Originally_RR ,_, the_AT deli_NN1 was_VBDZ an_AT1 antidote_NN1 to_II culture_NN1 shock_NN1 ,_, where_CS all_DB the_AT salt_NN1 ,_, sweet_JJ ,_, hot_JJ ,_, sharp_JJ ,_, garlicky_JJ flavours_NN2 of_IO home_NN1 could_VM be_VBI conjured_VVN up_RP between_II two_MC pieces_NN2 of_IO bread_NN1 ._. 
Meals_NN2 were_VBDR eaten_VVN on_II shop_NN1 premises_NN2 noisy_JJ ,_, welcoming_VVG outposts_NN2 of_IO the_AT mother_NN1 country_NN1 ._. 
To_II post-war_JJ generations_NN2 ,_, the_AT deli_NN1 has_VHZ become_VVN a_AT1 way_NN1 to_TO stay_VVI connected_JJ ,_, through_II the_AT taste_NN1 buds_NN2 with_IW their_APPGE roots_NN2 ._. 
Scotland_NP1 's_GE Italian_JJ immigrants_NN2 have_VH0 been_VBN the_AT most_RGT generous_JJ and_CC benevolent_JJ of_IO culinary_JJ missionaries_NN2 ._. 
Their_APPGE contributions_NN2 to_II the_AT serious_JJ arts_NN2 of_IO fish-frying_NN1 and_CC ice-cream_NN1 making_VVG are_VBR well_RR documented_VVN ;_; they_PPHS2 have_VH0 allayed_VVN indigenous_JJ suspicion_NN1 about_II garlic_NN1 ;_; and_CC ,_, in_II Glasgow_NP1 and_CC Edinburgh_NP1 ,_, they_PPHS2 have_VH0 established_VVN two_MC of_IO the_AT country_NN1 's_GE finest_JJT delicatessens_NN2 ._. 
In_II Glasgow_NP1 ,_, Fazzi_JJ Brothers_NN2 '_GE Caffe-Bar_NP1 ,_, adjoining_VVG the_AT Cambridge_NP1 Street_NNL1 branch_NN1 of_IO the_AT family_NN1 's_GE 70-year-old_JJ delicatessen_NN1 business_NN1 ,_, fits_VVZ in_RP nicely_RR with_IW the_AT Glaswegian_JJ notion_NN1 of_IO la_NN131 dolce_NN132 vita_NN133 :_: sparky_JJ but_CCB unhurried_JJ conversation_NN1 ,_, compulsive_JJ people-watching_NN1 ,_, searching_VVG critiques_NN2 of_IO the_AT nearby_JJ Sauchiehall_NP1 Street_NNL1 shoe_NN1 shops_NN2 ,_, and_CC comparative_JJ study_NN1 of_IO each_PPX221 other_PPX222 's_GE purchases_NN2 ,_, all_DB washed_VVD down_RP with_IW copious_JJ amounts_NN2 of_IO coffee_NN1 and_CC a_AT1 plate_NN1 of_IO voluptuous_JJ cakes_NN2 ._. 
In_II the_AT morning_NNT1 ,_, breakfasts_NN2 may_VM be_VBI classic_JJ continental_JJ with_IW fresh_JJ fruit_NN juice_NN1 and_CC Italian-style_JJ croissants_NN2 and_CC pastries_NN2 ,_, or_CC savoury_JJ treats_NN2 such_II21 as_II22 focaccia_NN1 slabs_NN2 of_IO rich_JJ bread_NN1 dough_NN1 baked_VVN with_IW herbs_NN2 and_CC olive_JJ oil_NN1 ._. 
The_AT beans_NN2 for_IF the_AT house_NN1 coffee_NN1 are_VBR roasted_VVN fresh_JJ every_AT1 day_NNT1 in_II the_AT Fazzis_NP1 '_GE other_JJ premises_NN2 in_II Clyde_NP1 Street_NNL1 ._. 
By_II some_DD mysterious_JJ alchemy_NN1 it_PPH1 seems_VVZ possible_JJ to_TO drink_VVI two_MC or_CC more_DAR cups_NN2 of_IO the_AT mellow_JJ cappuccino_NN1 or_CC caffe_NN1 crema_NN1 without_IW suffering_VVG the_AT jangle_NN1 of_IO caffeine_NN1 overload_NN1 ._. 
The_AT espresso_NN1 ,_, in_II small_JJ cups_NN2 ,_, is_VBZ dark_JJ and_CC serious_JJ and_CC packs_NN2 a_AT1 more_RGR powerful_JJ punch_NN1 ._. 
Italian-style_JJ cold_JJ drinks_NN2 ,_, such_II21 as_II22 iced_JJ coffee_NN1 granita_NN1 or_CC a_AT1 zingy_JJ blend_NN1 of_IO fresh_JJ fruit_NN juices_NN2 and_CC grenadine_NN1 ,_, are_VBR also_RR worth_II exploring_VVG ._. 
For_IF a_AT1 more_RGR serious_JJ snack_NN1 ,_, aficionados_NN2 make_VV0 time_NNT1 to_TO study_VVI the_AT delicatessen_NN1 counter_NN1 before_II ordering_NN1 ._. 
Any_DD of_IO the_AT meats_NN2 ,_, cheeses_NN2 ,_, marinated_VVD vegetables_NN2 or_CC salads_NN2 on_II sale_NN1 can_VM be_VBI made_VVN into_II a_AT1 custom-designed_JJ sandwich_NN1 ._. 
The_AT charcuterie_NN1 ,_, with_IW seasonal_JJ variations_NN2 ,_, includes_VVZ about_RG two_MC dozen_NNO different_JJ Italian_JJ salamis_NN2 and_CC sausages_NN2 ,_, Parma_NP1 ham_NN1 and_CC the_AT more_RGR delicately_RR flavoured_VVD San_NP1 Daniele_NP1 ._. 
Look_VV0 out_RP also_RR for_IF such_DA exotica_NN1 as_CSA malegato_NN1 ,_, an_AT1 aromatic_JJ Italian_JJ equivalent_NN1 of_IO traditional_JJ Scots_JJ black_JJ pudding_NN1 ._. 
At_II lunch_NN1 hours_NNT2 things_NN2 get_VV0 busy_JJ as_CSA customers_NN2 queue_VV0 up_RP for_IF the_AT small_JJ range_NN1 of_IO soft_JJ pasta_NN1 dishes_NN2 and_CC such_DA daily_JJ specials_NN2 as_CSA vegetable_NN1 lasagne_NN1 or_CC a_AT1 spicy_JJ Italian-sausage_JJ casserole_NN1 all_DB moderately_RR priced_VVN and_CC consistently_RR good_JJ ._. 
For_IF those_DD2 with_IW a_AT1 sweet_JJ tooth_NN1 (_( few_DA2 Glaswegians_NN2 are_VBR without_IW one_MC1 )_) ,_, the_AT gateaux_NN2 are_VBR suitably_RR elaborate_VV0 ._. 
As_CSA Fazzi_JJ Brothers_NN2 is_VBZ to_II Glasgow_NP1 and_CC the_AT west_ND1 of_IO Scotland_NP1 ,_, the_AT magisterial_JJ Italian_JJ food_NN1 and_CC wine_NN1 merchant_NN1 Valvona_NP1 and_CC Crolla_NP1 is_VBZ to_II Edinburgh_NP1 and_CC the_AT east_ND1 ._. 
Here_RL ,_, unfortunately_RR ,_, no_AT restaurant_NN1 area_NN1 is_VBZ yet_RR available_JJ to_TO allow_VVI customers_NN2 to_TO eat_VVI what_DDQ they_PPHS2 buy_VV0 where_RRQ they_PPHS2 buy_VV0 it_PPH1 ,_, but_CCB the_AT time_NNT1 spent_VVN waiting_VVG for_IF a_AT1 takeaway_NN1 sandwich_NN1 will_VM be_VBI an_AT1 invaluable_JJ education_NN1 in_II Italian_JJ food_NN1 ._. 
The_AT shop_NN1 ,_, established_VVN in_II 1934_MC and_CC now_RT run_VVN by_II the_AT founder_NN1 's_GE grandsons_NN2 ,_, is_VBZ undoubtedly_RR one_MC1 of_IO the_AT most_RGT important_JJ delicatessens_NN2 in_II the_AT country_NN1 ,_, vast_JJ in_II its_APPGE range_NN1 of_IO goods_NN2 and_CC uncompromising_JJ in_II its_APPGE quality_NN1 ._. 
Outside_RL ,_, it_PPH1 is_VBZ easy_JJ to_TO miss_VVI :_: the_AT narrow_JJ shopfront_NN1 is_VBZ identified_VVN only_RR by_II the_AT Italian_JJ flags_NN2 hanging_VVG overhead_RL ._. 
Inside_RL ,_, customers_NN2 thread_VV0 their_APPGE way_NN1 between_II stacks_NN2 of_IO every_AT1 imaginable_JJ pasta_NN1 ,_, pickles_NN2 and_CC condiments_NN2 ,_, flasks_NN2 of_IO vintage_NN1 olive_NN1 oils_NN2 ,_, stacks_NN2 of_IO imported_JJ biscuits_NN2 ,_, panforte_NN1 and_CC panettone_NN1 ._. 
Service_NN1 is_VBZ at_II a_AT1 counter_NN1 backed_VVN by_II one_MC1 of_IO Britain_NP1 's_GE most_RGT comprehensive_JJ collections_NN2 of_IO serious_JJ Italian_JJ wines_NN2 :_: more_DAR than_CSN 500_MC different_JJ varieties_NN2 are_VBR on_II offer_NN1 ._. 
To_II the_AT novice_NN1 first_MD impressions_NN2 may_VM be_VBI chaotic_JJ ,_, but_CCB the_AT temptation_NN1 to_TO turn_VVI away_RL and_CC come_VVI back_RP at_II some_DD quieter_JJR time_NNT1 should_VM be_VBI resisted_VVN ._. 
There_EX are_VBR few_DA2 ,_, if_CS any_DD ,_, quieter_JJR times_NNT2 ._. 
Here_RL again_RT ,_, all_DB the_AT glories_NN2 of_IO the_AT delicatessen_NN1 counter_NN1 marinated_VVD artichokes_NN2 ,_, sun-dried_JJ tomatoes_NN2 in_II virgin_JJ olive_JJ oil_NN1 ,_, seafood_NN1 salads_NN2 and_CC the_AT rich_JJ home-made_JJ pesto_NN1 are_VBR available_JJ in_II sandwich_NN1 form_NN1 ._. 
Those_DD2 wanting_VVG to_TO voyage_VVI further_RRR than_CSN comparatively_RR familiar_JJ delicacies_NN2 such_II21 as_II22 coppa_NN1 ,_, pancetta_NN1 or_CC fennel-flavoured_JJ salami_NN1 ,_, should_VM look_VVI upwards_RL ._. 
At_II certain_JJ times_NNT2 of_IO the_AT year_NNT1 ,_, hanging_VVG from_II the_AT ceiling_NN1 amid_II the_AT festoons_NN2 of_IO dried_JJ sausages_NN2 ,_, cheeses_NN2 ,_, onions_NN2 and_CC garlic_NN1 ,_, will_VM be_VBI a_AT1 haunch_NN1 of_IO wild_JJ boar_NN1 ._. 
When_CS manager_NN1 Victor_NP1 Contini_NP1 judges_VVZ that_CST the_AT moment_NN1 is_VBZ right_JJ ,_, the_AT haunch_NN1 is_VBZ brought_VVN down_RP to_TO be_VBI skinned_VVN ,_, boned_VVD ,_, cured_VVN and_CC thinly_RR sliced_VVN like_II Parma_NP1 ham_NN1 ._. 
At_II 5_MC per_II quarter_NN1 ,_, this_DD1 rarity_NN1 is_VBZ not_XX exactly_RR a_AT1 budget_NN1 snack_NN1 ,_, but_CCB with_IW a_AT1 focaccia_NN1 still_RR warm_JJ from_II the_AT oven_NN1 and_CC accompanied_VVN by_II a_AT1 few_DA2 herb-steeped_JJ olives_NN2 ,_, it_PPH1 could_VM be_VBI the_AT most_RGT extraordinary_JJ sandwich_NN1 you_PPY ever_RR eat_VV0 ._. 
Going_VVG Out_RP to_TO Eat_VV0 and_CC Drink_VV0 :_: More_DAR scope_NN1 for_IF cross-cultural_JJ encounters_NN2 By_II ELLEN_NP1 GALFORD_NP1 LONDON_NP1 UNCLE_NNB Ian_NP1 's_GE Deli-Diner_NP1 has_VHZ got_VVN things_NN2 determinedly_RR backwards_RL ._. 
Old_JJ World_NN1 trappings_NN2 of_IO the_AT Jewish_JJ corner_NN1 shop_NN1 have_VH0 been_VBN forsaken_VVN in_II31 favour_II32 of_II33 the_AT glaring_JJ lights_NN2 ,_, imitation_NN1 bentwood_NN1 chairs_NN2 and_CC lurid_JJ indoor_JJ awnings_NN2 of_IO a_AT1 suburban_JJ American_JJ fast-food_JJ parlour_NN1 ._. 
Yet_RR portions_NN2 cling_VV0 to_II the_AT style_NN1 of_IO days_NNT2 gone_VVN by_II ,_, when_CS a_AT1 salt_NN1 beef_NN1 sandwich_NN1 might_VM have_VHI been_VBN the_AT single_JJ meal_NN1 of_IO the_AT day_NNT1 ._. 
The_AT manic_JJ tone_NN1 behind_II this_DD1 two-year-old_JJ north_ND1 London_NP1 deli_NN1 ,_, however_RR ,_, is_VBZ timeless_JJ ._. 
Uncle_NNB Ian_NP1 is_VBZ fond_JJ of_IO jokes_NN2 and_CC posters_NN2 ._. 
A_AT1 meal_NN1 eaten_VVN in_II his_APPGE deli_NN1 is_VBZ likely_JJ to_TO be_VBI spent_VVN reading_VVG the_AT likes_NN2 of_IO '_" Your_APPGE spouse_NN1 found_VVD out_RP you_PPY 're_VBR having_VHG an_AT1 affair_NN1 ?_? 
Well_RR ,_, have_VH0 Uncle_NNB Ian_NP1 cater_VV0 it_PPH1 !_! !_! !_! 
'_GE Experienced_JJ Temple_NN1 Fortune_NN1 locals_NN2 seem_VV0 to_TO prefer_VVI to_TO peer_VVI away_II21 from_II22 the_AT posters_NN2 at_II the_AT television_NN1 set_NN1 perched_VVN atop_II the_AT soft_JJ drinks_NN2 cooler_NN1 ._. 
Mostly_RR timeless_JJ ,_, too_RR ,_, is_VBZ the_AT kosher-style_JJ deli_NN1 menu_NN1 :_: salt_NN1 beef_NN1 on_II rye_NN1 with_IW mustard_NN1 ;_; chopped_JJ liver_NN1 ;_; pastrami_NN1 and_CC salad_NN1 ;_; chicken_NN1 soup_NN1 '_GE with_IW everything_PN1 '_GE ;_; and_CC the_AT odd_JJ interloper_NN1 ,_, like_II peanut_NN1 butter_NN1 and_CC cream_NN1 cheese_NN1 ._. 
(_( Emily_NP1 Green_NP1 )_) Uncle_NNB Ian_NP1 's_GE Deli-Diner_NP1 ,_, 1105_MC Finchley_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, Temple_NP1 Fortune_NN1 ,_, NW11_FO (_( 01-458_MCMC 3493_MC )_) ._. 
Open_VV0 9am-11.30pm_RA daily_RR ,_, except_II 4pm_RA closing_JJ Fridays_NPD2 ._. 
Like_II all_DB good_JJ delis_NN2 ,_, La_NP1 Galicia_NP1 in_II Clapham_NP1 is_VBZ a_AT1 family_NN1 concern_NN1 ,_, run_VVN by_II Gloria_NP1 Ricot_NP1 with_IW help_NN1 from_II her_APPGE twin_NN1 sister_NN1 Clara_NP1 ._. 
After_II 12_MC years_NNT2 of_IO growing_JJ success_NN1 with_IW the_AT shop_NN1 ,_, Gloria_NP1 opened_VVD a_AT1 wine/tapas_FU bar_NN1 on_II the_AT premises_NN2 in_II May_NPM1 this_DD1 year_NNT1 ._. 
With_IW stocks_NN2 consisting_VVG largely_RR of_IO wines_NN2 from_II Navarra_NP1 and_CC Rioja_NP1 ,_, the_AT place_NN1 now_RT has_VHZ the_AT unusual_JJ advantage_NN1 of_IO both_RR on-_JJ and_CC off-licences_NN2 for_IF alcohol_NN1 ._. 
The_AT salty_JJ ,_, fishy_JJ odour_NN1 of_IO baccala_NN1 (_( dried_JJ salt_NN1 cod_NN )_) hits_VVZ you_PPY at_II the_AT door_NN1 ,_, and_CC there_EX is_VBZ a_AT1 good_JJ selection_NN1 of_IO Spanish_JJ pork_NN1 products_NN2 ,_, not_XX forgetting_VVG chorizo_NN1 sausage_NN1 and_CC serrano_NN1 ham_NN1 ._. 
There_EX are_VBR eight_MC varieties_NN2 of_IO olives_NN2 ,_, bulk_NN1 and_CC bottled_JJ ,_, including_II a_AT1 Californian_JJ one_PN1 stuffed_VVN with_IW jalapeno_NN1 ;_; olive_JJ oil_NN1 ,_, most_RGT famously_RR Carbonell_NP1 whose_DDQGE comely_JJ wench_NN1 pictured_VVN on_II the_AT labels_NN2 must_VM be_VBI the_AT emblem_NN1 of_IO Spanish_JJ olive_JJ oil_NN1 in_II British_JJ imaginations_NN2 ,_, comes_VVZ in_II gallon_NNU1 tins_NN2 rather_CS21 than_CS22 fancy_VVI little_JJ bottles_NN2 ._. 
A_AT1 wide_JJ range_NN1 of_IO deCecco_NN1 pasta_NN1 ,_, among_II the_AT best_JJT of_IO the_AT dried_JJ brands_NN2 ,_, jostles_VVZ for_IF space_NN1 on_II the_AT shelves_NN2 next_II21 to_II22 pretty_JJ tin_NN1 boxes_NN2 of_IO turron_NN1 ,_, Spanish_JJ almond_NN1 nougat_NN1 ._. 
In_II the_AT compact_JJ bar_NN1 space_NN1 at_II the_AT back_NN1 of_IO the_AT store_NN1 you_PPY can_VM perch_VVI on_II a_AT1 stool_NN1 and_CC eat_VVI tapas_NN2 ,_, sandwiches_NN2 or_CC a_AT1 hot_JJ meal_NN1 ,_, washed_VVD down_RP with_IW cappuccino_NN1 or_CC Spanish_JJ beer_NN1 ._. 
The_AT Ricots_NN2 make_VV0 paella_NN1 almost_RR every_AT1 day_NNT1 by_II popular_JJ demand_NN1 ;_; the_AT Saturday_NPD1 special_JJ is_VBZ churros_NN2 (_( fried_JJ twisted_JJ dough_NN1 )_) and_CC a_AT1 hot_JJ cup_NN1 of_IO chocolate_NN1 for_IF 1_MC1 ._. 
(_( Linda_NP1 Sue_NP1 Park_NN1 )_) La_NP1 Galicia_NP1 ,_, 148_MC Clapham_NP1 Manor_NN1 Street_NN1 ,_, SW4_FO (_( 01-622_MCMC 0599_MC )_) ._. 
Open_VV0 9am-7.30pm_RA Mon-Sat_JJ ._. 
MANCHESTER_NP1 Laps_NN2 has_VHZ been_VBN an_AT1 institution_NN1 for_IF almost_RR 60_MC years_NNT2 ._. 
Many_DA2 a_AT1 Jewish_JJ courtship_NN1 has_VHZ got_VVN off_RP to_II a_AT1 somewhat_RR greasy_JJ start_NN1 over_II pickled_JJ brisket_NN1 sandwiches_NN2 and_CC chips_NN2 on_II fine_JJ evenings_NNT2 outside_II the_AT deli_NN1 ._. 
The_AT less_RGR pubescent_JJ diner_NN1 can_VM cast_VVI a_AT1 detached_JJ eye_NN1 on_II this_DD1 ritual_NN1 from_II six_MC Formica-topped_JJ tables_NN2 inside_II the_AT tiny_JJ deli-restaurant_NN1 ._. 
Although_CS Laps_NN2 has_VHZ now_RT passed_VVN out_II21 of_II22 the_AT benign_JJ hands_NN2 of_IO David_NP1 and_CC Lotte_NP1 Lapidus_NP1 ,_, who_PNQS ran_VVD it_PPH1 for_IF some_DD 50_MC years_NNT2 ,_, the_AT tradition_NN1 lives_VVZ on_RP as_CSA does_VDZ the_AT style_NN1 of_IO cuisine_NN1 ,_, best_RRT described_VVN by_II the_AT Yiddish_JJ word_NN1 hamisch_NN1 ._. 
Nothing_PN1 fancy_JJ and_CC lots_PN of_IO it_PPH1 ._. 
Pickled_JJ brisket_NN1 and_CC chopped_JJ and_CC fried_JJ fish_NN are_VBR the_AT specialities_NN2 ,_, although_CS at_II times_NNT2 Laps_NN2 bizarrely_RR mixes_VVZ the_AT Eastern_JJ European_JJ tradition_NN1 with_IW that_DD1 of_IO south_ND1 Lancashire_NP1 ._. 
There_EX can_VM be_VBI few_DA2 other_JJ places_NN2 in_II the_AT world_NN1 where_CS you_PPY can_VM wash_VVI down_RP a_AT1 chopped_JJ herring_NN sandwich_NN1 with_IW a_AT1 glass_NN1 of_IO hot_JJ Vimto_NN1 ._. 
(_( Martin_NP1 Kelner_NP1 )_) Lapidus_NP1 ,_, 21_MC Bury_NP1 Old_NP1 Road_NNL1 ,_, Prestwich_NP1 (_( 061_MC 740_MC 3095_MC )_) ._. 
Open_VV0 Tues-Thur_NP1 5.30pm-11pm_RA ;_; Sun_NN1 11.30am-3pm_RA ._. 
Food_NN1 :_: Feast_NN1 of_IO indelicate_JJ edibles_NN2 :_: Chaim_VV0 Bermant_JJ hankers_NN2 for_IF herrings_NN2 By_II CHAIM_NP1 BERMANT_NP1 DELICATESSEN_NP1 ,_, as_CSA the_AT name_NN1 suggests_VVZ ,_, means_VVZ delicate_JJ edibles_NN2 ,_, but_CCB delicate_JJ these_DD2 edibles_NN2 are_VBR not_XX ._. 
They_PPHS2 assault_VV0 the_AT sense_NN1 ,_, savage_VV0 the_AT palate_NN1 ,_, ravage_VV0 one_PN1 's_GE innards_NN2 and_CC announce_VV0 themselves_PPX2 in_II loud_JJ ,_, pungent_JJ terms_NN2 so_CS21 that_CS22 one_PN1 gets_VVZ wind_NN1 of_IO them_PPHO2 long_RR before_CS one_PN1 catches_VVZ sight_NN1 of_IO them_PPHO2 ._. 
But_CCB I_PPIS1 love_VV0 them_PPHO2 ._. 
Basically_RR they_PPHS2 are_VBR titbits_NN2 and_CC are_VBR designed_VVN to_TO excite_VVI the_AT appetite_NN1 rather_CS21 than_CS22 assuage_VVI it_PPH1 ._. 
As_CSA food_NN1 they_PPHS2 are_VBR meant_VVN principally_RR for_IF the_AT non-hungry_JJ ,_, the_AT non-domesticated_JJ ,_, those_DD2 who_PNQS can_VM just_RR summon_VVI the_AT energies_NN2 to_TO open_VVI a_AT1 tin_NN1 of_IO pate_NN141 de_NN142 foie_NN143 gras_NN144 or_CC unwind_VV0 a_AT1 rollmop_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ born_VVN in_II what_DDQ is_VBZ now_RT Russia_NP1 ,_, and_CC when_CS I_PPIS1 came_VVD to_II Scotland_NP1 shortly_RR before_II the_AT war_NN1 the_AT small_JJ Jewish_JJ grocery_NN1 shops_NN2 in_II the_AT Gorbals_NP1 district_NN1 of_IO Glasgow_NP1 were_VBDR my_APPGE main_JJ link_NN1 with_IW home_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 still_RR remember_VV0 their_APPGE names_NN2 :_: Ixe_NP1 's_GE ,_, Fogels_NP2 ,_, Ettingers_NP1 ,_, Callendars_NP1 ._. 
And_CC their_APPGE wares_NN2 :_: huge_JJ ,_, steaming_VVG loaves_NN2 of_IO black_JJ Russian_JJ bread_NN1 ,_, glossy_JJ bagels_NN2 ,_, crispy_JJ pretzels_NN2 ,_, cinnamon_NN1 cakes_NN2 ,_, long_RR ,_, crudely_RR circumcised_JJ phallic_JJ rolls_NN2 of_IO salami_NN1 ,_, pickled_VVD gherkins_NN2 and_CC their_APPGE hallmark_NN1 -_- open_JJ barrels_NN2 of_IO salt_NN1 herrings_NN2 ._. 
I_PPIS1 only_RR had_VHD to_TO shut_VVI my_APPGE eyes_NN2 and_CC inhale_VVI and_CC I_PPIS1 was_VBDZ back_RP in_II Russia_NP1 ._. 
To_II me_PPIO1 delicatessen_NN1 means_VVZ herring_NN ,_, 1,001_MC varieties_NN2 of_IO herring_NN ,_, but_CCB I_PPIS1 did_VDD not_XX always_RR regard_VVI them_PPHO2 as_II such_DA if_CS only_RR because_CS I_PPIS1 virtually_RR lived_VVN on_II them_PPHO2 ._. 
The_AT herring_NN was_VBDZ to_II the_AT Eastern_JJ European_JJ Jew_NN1 what_DDQ potatoes_NN2 were_VBDR to_II the_AT Irish_JJ ,_, which_DDQ is_VBZ surprising_JJ ,_, for_IF the_AT herring_NN is_VBZ a_AT1 salt-water_JJ fish_NN and_CC in_II Russia_NP1 and_CC Poland_NP1 one_PN1 rarely_RR got_VVN a_AT1 glimpse_NN1 of_IO the_AT sea_NN1 ._. 
But_CCB Jews_NN2 know_VV0 a_AT1 good_JJ thing_NN1 when_CS they_PPHS2 taste_VV0 it_PPH1 and_CC alighted_VVN on_II the_AT herring_NN because_CS it_PPH1 was_VBDZ inexpensive_JJ ,_, piquant_NN1 ,_, nutritious_JJ and_CC versatile_JJ ._. 
The_AT herring_NN was_VBDZ never_RR quite_RR considered_VVN a_AT1 member_NN1 of_IO the_AT fish_NN family_NN1 ._. 
The_AT carp_NN and_CC pike_NN ,_, which_DDQ were_VBDR found_VVN locally_RR ,_, were_VBDR kitted_VVN out_RP with_IW lavish_JJ trimmings_NN2 and_CC served_VVN on_II the_AT Sabbath_NN1 and_CC at_II festivals_NN2 ._. 
The_AT humble_JJ herring_NN was_VBDZ treated_VVN as_CSA crude_JJ workaday_NN1 fare_NN1 ,_, and_CC in_II our_APPGE household_NN1 we_PPIS2 might_VM have_VHI pickled_VVN herring_NN on_II Sunday_NPD1 ,_, soused_JJ herring_NN on_II Monday_NPD1 ,_, herrings_NN2 in_II sour_JJ cream_NN1 on_II Tuesday_NPD1 ,_, schmaltz_NN1 herring_NN on_II Wednesday_NPD1 ,_, and_CC herrings_NN2 fried_VVN in_II matzo_NN1 meal_NN1 on_II Thursday_NPD1 ._. 
When_CS we_PPIS2 moved_VVD to_II Scotland_NP1 I_PPIS1 discovered_VVD the_AT greatest_JJT delicacy_NN1 of_IO all_DB the_AT smoked_JJ herring_NN ,_, or_CC kipper_NN1 ._. 
I_PPIS1 am_VBM sure_JJ the_AT warm_JJ affinities_NN2 between_II Scots_NN2 and_CC Jews_NN2 arise_VV0 out_II21 of_II22 appreciation_NN1 of_IO herrings_NN2 ._. 
I_PPIS1 also_RR came_VVD upon_II a_AT1 mysterious_JJ animal_NN1 I_PPIS1 had_VHD not_XX seen_VVN before_RT :_: much_RR larger_JJR than_CSN the_AT herring_NN ,_, redder_JJR and_CC infinitely_RR more_RGR expensive_JJ ._. 
They_PPHS2 called_VVD it_PPH1 smoked_JJ salmon_NN and_CC I_PPIS1 immediately_RR concluded_VVD it_PPH1 was_VBDZ some_DD sort_NN1 of_IO rich_JJ man_NN1 's_GE herring_NN ._. 
The_AT Gorbals_NP1 is_VBZ no_AT more_DAR and_CC neither_RR are_VBR the_AT small_JJ Jewish_JJ grocery_NN1 shops_NN2 ._. 
One_PN1 is_VBZ hard_RR pressed_VVN even_RR to_TO find_VVI them_PPHO2 in_II London_NP1 ._. 
Instead_RR one_PN1 has_VHZ delicatessens_NN2 which_DDQ are_VBR more_RGR brightly_RR lit_VVN and_CC infinitely_RR more_RGR hygienic_JJ than_CSN the_AT small_JJ corner_NN1 shops_NN2 I_PPIS1 have_VH0 known_VVN ,_, but_CCB with_IW their_APPGE fridges_NN2 and_CC freezers_NN2 and_CC extraction_NN1 fans_NN2 they_PPHS2 have_VH0 tamed_VVN their_APPGE wares_NN2 and_CC robbed_VVN them_PPHO2 of_IO their_APPGE pungency_NN1 ._. 
One_PN1 's_GE sense_NN1 of_IO smell_NN1 ,_, always_RR deeply_RR involved_JJ in_II the_AT joy_NN1 of_IO the_AT delicatessen_NN1 ,_, has_VHZ been_VBN rendered_VVN virtually_RR redundant_JJ ._. 
But_CCB more_DAR than_CSN that_DD1 ,_, all_DB the_AT goods_NN2 ,_, and_CC especially_RR the_AT innumerable_JJ varieties_NN2 of_IO herring_NN ,_, have_VH0 gone_VVN upmarket_RR ._. 
If_CS salmon_NN is_VBZ still_RR the_AT rich_JJ man_NN1 's_GE herring_NN ,_, one_PN1 can_VM no_RR21 longer_RR22 think_VVI of_IO herrings_NN2 as_II the_AT poor_JJ man_NN1 's_GE salmon_NN for_CS they_PPHS2 have_VH0 become_VVN so_RG expensive_JJ that_CST one_PN1 buys_VVZ them_PPHO2 by_II the_AT troy_NN1 ounce_NNU1 ._. 
All_DB of_IO which_DDQ shows_VVZ that_CST one_MC1 man_NN1 's_GE staple_NN1 is_VBZ another_DD1 man_NN1 's_GE delicatessen_NN1 or_CC ,_, rather_RR ,_, that_CST the_AT necessities_NN2 of_IO one_MC1 generation_NN1 can_VM become_VVI the_AT luxuries_NN2 of_IO the_AT next_MD ._. 
